Ed. Heuer & Co introduced the Autavia model in 1962 as their first chronograph wristwatch with a model name while earlier examples were only known by reference numbers. Created by Jack Heuer, great grandson of founder Edouard Heuer, the Autavia was the brand’s first chronograph featuring a rotating bezel, and became an icon of the 1960s especially in motorsports with famed drivers like Derek Bell, Clay Regazzoni and Jo Siffert sporting the chronograph. Early examples used screw-back cases, however shortly thereafter, the brand began utilizing snap-back, compressor cases made by E. Piquerez SA (EPSA), which tighten as a watch submerges underwater. In 1968, Heuer introduced their first GMT chronograph with screw back case featuring a central, dual time hour hand with blue and red bezel. By 1969, the brand transitioned from the screw-back case to the compressor case, and like the present watch, featured the first execution black dial with three white subsidiary dials. The dial had “GMT” printed under the maker’s logo, and the bottom hour register was signed “T Swiss”. The red and blue bezel was re-designed to include 24 hours with the model featuring the Tritium matchstick hands found on the standard Autavia chronograph. The serial range for this selection of timepieces was 111XXX to 140XXX.
The present Autavia GMT is fresh-to-the-market, further distinguished by the Abercrombie & Fitch Co. retailer signature found at 6 o’clock. The original Abercrombie & Fitch founded in 1892 was known for their high-end outdoor gear for fishing and hunting, and were known as the store of choice for the true sports man. Heuer began to manufacture chronograph watches for the retailer in 1940, and they would become some of the most popular sports/tool watches for outdoor enthusiasts, found across a broad spectrum of Heuer models like the Auto-Mark, Auto-Graph, Solunar, Seafarer and Autavia GMT chronographs. In stunning original condition, this GMT has a crisp case with all of its original factory finishing and bevels well-preserved. The dial has beautifully aged with intact luminous hour markers and matching hands that have turned a warm, light-brownish hue.
Mid-20th century steel tool watches are some of the most sought after in the market today, and the Autavia GMT is both functional and highly attractive. This watch is all the more alluring with the Abercrombie & Fitch Co retailer signature, and is a wonderful representation of some of the best watch manufacturing seen in the 1960s and 1970s.