Heuer Seafarer - The New York Watch Auction: X New York Saturday, June 8, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Heuer Seafarer
    Year: Circa 1952
    Reference No: 346
    Movement No: 752’690, stamped AXF
    Case No: 80’253
    Model Name: Seafarer "First Execution"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 71, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel pin buckle
    Dimensions: 37.5mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Heuer has long been associated with precision timekeeping, and known for some of the most sophisticated tool chronographs of the mid 20th century. The Seafarer and Mareograph are two wonderful examples from this period with the Mareographe, the Heuer-branded, European counterpart of the Seafarer model retailed by the Abercrombie & Fitch Co in the USA. The famed American sporting goods company saw its earliest iteration in the Heuer Solunar, a time-only watch created by Jack Heuer in the 1940s featuring a unique, brightly colored tidal indicator at 6 o’clock. Though the Solunar was ultimately unsuccessful, Heuer would combine the tidal indicator of the Solunar with a chronograph function, resulting in the Seafarer and Mareographe models.

    The present model is a very rare example with a first iteration dial, which has turned a lovely uniform caramel hue. The watch is housed in a Heuer reference 346 chronograph case with screw-down case back, opposed to later models with the snap on “Compressor” style case. The dial features oversized registers with the minute register at 3 o’clock featuring two blue segments, marking 0 to 5 minutes and 10 to 15 minutes used at the start of a yachting race. At 9 o’clock is the unique, colorful tidal register.

    The present watch was last seen in public when first offered by the family of the original owner in 2017. It has remained in an important American collection, preserved in excellent overall condition. The rarity of the model is matched by the rarity of the “tropical” dial, which has aged to a wonderfully warm, caramel colour that is uniform throughout. It presents collectors with an opportunity to own a hardly ever seen, uniquely American watch with wonderful character and charm.


Ref. 346
A very rare and early stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “tropical “ dial, tidal indication, and regatta countdown, retailed by Abercrombie & Fitch

Circa 1952
37.5mm Diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

$15,000 - 30,000 

Sold for $43,180

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293

Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285

The New York Watch Auction: X

New York Auction 8 - 9 June 2024