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192

Gübelin

A fine, rare and attractive white gold minute repeating perpetual calendar open face pocketwatch with moonphases and Breguet numerals, retailed by Gübelin

Estimate
CHF6,000 - 8,000
€5,600 - 7,400
$5,900 - 7,900
CHF20,000
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Gübelin
Year
Circa 1925
Case No
69'132
Material
18K white gold
Calibre
Manual, 29 jewels
Dimensions
46.5mm. Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed Gübelin
Catalogue Essay
Founded in 1855, Swiss retailer Gübelin is today known as the destination for exceptional jewelry, gemstone expertise, and the world's most luxurious watches. During the 1920s, Gübelin made revolutionary strides in the jewelry industry by opening a jewelry atelier and gemstone testing laboratory. At the same time, the firm also commissioned watchmakers to create the most exquisite horological marvels, such as the present watch.

This minute repeating perpetual calendar open face pocketwatch is an exceedingly rare example. Exuding the elegant style of the 1920s, this watch features beautiful applied deco-style Breguet numerals, which is iconic to the period. Featuring four different subdials and a moon phase aperture, which together display the perpetual calendar function, the watch is also fitted with a minute repeating mechanism that chimes with great tone and clarity - a discerning 'tell' of any well-made movement.

One should also marvel at the incredible condition of this open face watch. All printing is present and intact. The retailer's signature is proudly displayed at 6 o'clock, without any losses. There is furthermore a crisp and sharp hallmark under the bow - another testament to this watch's originality.

Most intriguing is the movement, which is not signed by the manufacturer. Research suggests that watchmakers such as Audemars Piguet or Haas Neveux did not sign their movements when they were delivered to Gübelin, due to contractual reasons. Instead, all movements were to be signed by the retailer, along with the watch case.

Gübelin

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