A fine, large and incredibly rare platinum, diamond and emerald-set necklace form watch

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  • Manufacturer: Gübelin
    Year: 1930
    Movement No: 3262
    Material: Platinum, emeralds and diamonds
    Calibre: Mechanical, 18 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Platinum and spectacle-set diamond and trace-link longchain
    Dimensions: 66 mm. length
    Signed: Dial and movement signed Gübelin

  • Catalogue Essay

    This necklace form watch by Gübelin is composed of emeralds and diamonds totaling approximately 3.6 carats. The rectangular-cut emeralds, baguette-cut diamonds and circular-cut diamonds come together in a geometric form, really showcasing the design and flair of the art deco period. On the reverse of the pendant is a dial signed Gübelin, the prestigious Swiss retailer. The movement is also signed by the retailer, however it is very possible that the movement was manufactured by Vacheron Constantin. The pendant hangs on a stylish spectacle-set diamond and trace-link longchain and is composed of circular-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.85 carats. The quality of stones really highlight this necklace form watch with the deep green of the emeralds and the old-cut diamonds. It is of exceptional overall quality.

    This pendant watch is very important. In the 1920s, diamond and gem-set watches were becoming increasingly popular among society women. The quality of gems was always an important factor for the new female clientele. Gübelin started as a family owned shop in 1855, and Eduard Gübelin was responsible for buying the firm's highest quality stones for their creations. He was particularly concerned with quality, and he wanted to test the authenticity of the gems before incorporating them into his designs. In 1923, Eduard Gübelin opened an in-house laboratory with a focus on testing quality. This was a revolutionary idea and really transformed the Gübelin company. Today, the Gübelin Lucerne Gem Lab is one of the most respected gem labs in the world, as the trusted authorities when it comes to testing the quality of rare gems. Eduard Gübelin is credited for establishing gemology as a science and it is considered as one of the 21st century's most important and influential gemologist.

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Gübelin

A fine, large and incredibly rare platinum, diamond and emerald-set necklace form watch

Gubelin,精細及罕有,鉑金鑲鑽石及綠寶石項鍊,配時計,約1930年製

1930
66 mm. length
Dial and movement signed Gübelin

Estimate
HK$160,000 - 240,000 

sold for HK$237,500

Contact Specialist
Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
thomasperazzi@phillips.com

Ziyong Ho
Specialist
+852 9386 2032
ziyongho@phillips.com

Jill Chen
Specialist
+852 2318 2033
jillchen@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: Two

Hong Kong Auction 31 May 2016