Gübelin - The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE Geneva Friday, May 12, 2017 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Gübelin
    Year: Circa 1925
    Case No: 69'132
    Material: 18K white gold
    Calibre: Manual, 29 jewels
    Dimensions: 46.5mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed Gübelin

  • Catalogue Essay

    Founded in 1855, Swiss retailer Gübelin is today known as the destination for exceptional jewelry, gemstone expertise, and the world's most luxurious watches. During the 1920s, Gübelin made revolutionary strides in the jewelry industry by opening a jewelry atelier and gemstone testing laboratory. At the same time, the firm also commissioned watchmakers to create the most exquisite horological marvels, such as the present watch.

    This minute repeating perpetual calendar open face pocketwatch is an exceedingly rare example. Exuding the elegant style of the 1920s, this watch features beautiful applied deco-style Breguet numerals, which is iconic to the period. Featuring four different subdials and a moon phase aperture, which together display the perpetual calendar function, the watch is also fitted with a minute repeating mechanism that chimes with great tone and clarity - a discerning 'tell' of any well-made movement.

    One should also marvel at the incredible condition of this open face watch. All printing is present and intact. The retailer's signature is proudly displayed at 6 o'clock, without any losses. There is furthermore a crisp and sharp hallmark under the bow - another testament to this watch's originality.

    Most intriguing is the movement, which is not signed by the manufacturer. Research suggests that watchmakers such as Audemars Piguet or Haas Neveux did not sign their movements when they were delivered to Gübelin, due to contractual reasons. Instead, all movements were to be signed by the retailer, along with the watch case.


A fine, rare and attractive white gold minute repeating perpetual calendar open face pocketwatch with moonphases and Breguet numerals, retailed by Gübelin

Circa 1925
46.5mm. Diameter
Case, dial and movement signed Gübelin

CHF6,000 - 8,000 

Sold for CHF20,000

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE

Geneva Auctions 13 – 14 May 2017