"The Grand Seiko First is one of my favourite watch designs of all time, an archetype for what a beautiful dress watch should be. These re-issues by Grand Seiko are an especially good way to enjoy the First, re-making the original design but upgrading every aspect of their construction. I was the first owner of this watch and will sorely miss it as it is the peak of the classically sized Firsts." — Mark Cho


Sleek, hefty, and subtly impressive, the reference SBGW039 was created to celebrate the 130th anniversary of Seiko in 2011. This watch is one of just 130 pieces cased in platinum and is instantly recognizable due to its non-blued silvered seconds hand. Alongside the platinum version, Grand Seiko also produced 1,300 pieces in steel and 130 pieces in yellow gold for the commemoration, with this trio serving as a remake of the very first Grand Seiko model—reference 3180.

Sharing similar case proportions and dial design, the SBGW039 features a charming domed cream dial that is clean and minimalistic, showcasing the Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock, a single line at 6 o’clock, and applied hour markers on the outskirts of the dial. While the design aesthetics remain the same, it incorporated a modern caliber 9S64, offering an impressive 72-hour power reserve. Furthermore, the crystal has been upgraded from plexiglass to sapphire crystal.

The case, movement, dial, and hands are all executed and finished to the highest degree of quality—defining characteristics of Grand Seiko. From the collection of Mark Cho, this watch is accompanied by its guarantee, certificate, original hang tag, and fitted presentation box, making it a complete and attractive addition for collectors.