For those entrenched in the horological world of the 21st century, it is difficult to imagine an existence without F.P. Journe. François-Paul Journe introduced his first wristwatch, the Tourbillon Souverain, in 1999, and shortly thereafter followed with the revolutionary Chronométre à Résonance and the Octa Automatique. The Octa began as one watch but with the mindset that Journe was in fact building the base of an entire collection – which indeed happened. Before being discontinued, the Octa Automatique formed the basis of eight separate models, each with different complications.

This particular Octa is in fact, an Octa Calandrier from Journe’s Ruthenium collection. It incorporates an automatic annual calendar complication in a 40mm platinum case, with ruthenium coated dial and movement plate – a first for the brand. According to the brand’s website, it is the first wristwatch to combine the annual calendar function with both an oversized date. Journe created the Ruthenium collection between the move from brass movements to 18K pink gold movements, and aside from the Souscription pieces, they are some of the most highly coveted, early examples.

The Ruthenium collection comprises five models: the Octa Jour/Nuit (Night/Day), the Octa Calandrier (the present watch), the Octa Chronographe, the Chronomètre à Résonance, and the Tourbillon Souveraine. Each model was released in only 99 examples between 2003 and 2004. Stylistically, the Ruthenium collection examples close the door on the early brass movement pieces, with a larger case diameter and the darker hue of the ruthenium dials and movements, and open the door to the more modern iterations that have drawn admirers of Journe’s craft year after year.

The development of the movement was a prolonged process, with the main task being refining the mainspring to a point where it gave consistent power to the gear train, for as large a proportion of its unwinding as possible. Together with a specialist spring maker, Journe finally settled on a design that was a metre long and 1mm thick. This caliber 1300 also integrates a power reserve of 120 hours.

The present number 43 of 99 is fresh-to-the-market and offered in pristine overall condition. The steely gray dial contrasts beautifully with the silver guilloché disc for hours and minutes, and the annual calendar function is elegantly laid out. Such a timepiece is sure to satisfy the collecting thirst of the most astute Journe aficionados.