Daniel Roth - The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT New York Saturday, June 10, 2023 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Daniel Roth
    Year: Circa 1990s
    Reference No: C117
    Movement No: 36
    Case No: 036
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 8810, 30 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Daniel Roth buckle
    Dimensions: 35mm Width x 38mm Length
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
    Accessories: Accompanied by Daniel Roth Guarantee dated March 2004, and stamped The Hour Glass, additional Daniel Roth crocodile strap, and fitted presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Daniel Roth wristwatches are instantaneously recognizable by their unique, elongated rectangular case design. Similar to other independent watchmakers of the late 20th century, his name today is known for horological excellence. Establishing his own firm in 1988, Daniel Roth was one of the earliest watchmakers to embark on his own, fully independent career, creating contemporary, complicated timepieces, now highly sought after for their design and mechanical innovation. He was born in to a family of watchmakers and spent his early childhood in the family workshop, and eventually attended a three year watchmaking course in Nice. His career spanned time at Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet and Breguet before creating his own atelier committed to traditional watchmaking with his early works highlighted by the famed watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet with metallic chapter rings, Roman numerals, and hand finished movements.

    In the early 1990s, Daniel Roth sought to create a perpetual calendar wristwatch for his signature double-ellipse case. Roughly at the same time in 1992, legendary watchmaker Philippe Dufour announced his decision to become completely independent and create timepieces under his own name, the same year in which he introduced the highly impressive Grand Sonnerie at Baselworld. Residing just down the road from each other, it was inevitable for the two to work together and collaborate.

    With the acceptance from Dufour, the two set out to create the Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar ref. C117. The foundation of choice was the reliable and robust Lemania caliber 8810 which they used as a base with modifications made by Dufour to fit inside the unusual dimensions of the double-ellipse case. Described as hard work even for someone of his skill, the pair was not only developing a regular perpetual calendar but the world’s first instantaneous perpetual calendar where all components would change instantly once the hands passed midnight. Both Roth and Dufour quickly realized for that to happen, too much energy was required to achieve the feature and the day and month apertures had to be changed to subsidiary dials.

    The present example in yellow gold is a rare, early variant with two apertures for the day and month. Although Roth and Dufour never achieved their goal of it being an instantaneous perpetual calendar, it is a great opportunity for collectors to acquire a Daniel Roth timepiece developed together with the respected Philippe Dufour.


Ref. C117
A rare and fine yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indication, guarantee, and presentation box

Circa 1990s
35mm Width x 38mm Length
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.

$25,000 - 50,000 

Sold for $76,200

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285

The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT

New York Auction 10 - 11 June 2023