Cartier - The 2021 New York Watch Auction New York Saturday, December 11, 2021 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Cartier
    Year: Circa 1980s
    Reference No: 2947
    Case No: 649667 ; 8057912 ; BP3550
    Model Name: Baignoire Joallierie “Tutti Frutti”
    Material: 18K yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires, carved emeralds, and carved rubies.
    Calibre: Quartz
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold, sapphire, diamond, carved emerald and ruby-set bracelet, max length approx. 172mm, marked HPS1456
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold double deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 23mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, bracelet, and clasp signed.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The DNA of Cartier is made up of many strands of jewelry and watchmaking design excellence: the Crash, the Tank, the Juste Un Clou, the LOVE bracelet, and the Panthère to name a few. Just as instantly identifiable as inimitably Cartier is the Tutti Frutti, a dazzling display of carved gems directly inspired by the obsession with the exotic that flourished during the Art Deco period. Typically crafted as spectacular gem-studded bracelets of carved rubies, sapphires, emeralds, studded with diamonds, and accented with black enamel, Cartier-signed vintage Tutti Frutti bracelets have been known to fetch millions of dollars at auction. It is no wonder that Cartier further elaborated on this lavish design heritage in the 1970s and 1980s with a line of watches that fully celebrated the unique character of Tutti Frutti. Most of the examples are relatively more restrained, with only a few carved gems and diamonds set into the case and fitted with a strap, but some, like the present lot, are adorned fully with a spectacular treatment of gem-setting and embellishment.

    To the best of our knowledge, the exact same watch has not appeared publicly, making this piece potentially unique. The dial is set with pavé diamonds, as is the bezel, and the hour markers are alternating rubies and emeralds. The crown is set with a cabochon diamond. The bracelet is set with rows of sapphires, carved emeralds and rubies in a flower motif, and then rows of diamonds repeated throughout the gold bracelet. Our research shows only two other similar pieces have appeared; one in white gold and one in yellow gold in a similar configuration but with a sapphire cabochon crown instead of a diamond cabochon crown, rows of emeralds instead of rows of sapphires, and carved rubies only. The present Cartier Baignoire Joallierie “Tutti Frutti” is offered in excellent condition, having hardly ever been worn.

  • Artist Biography



    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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Ref. 2947
An extravagant and dazzling yellow gold and gem-set bracelet watch with pavé diamond dial, carved emeralds and rubies, and sapphires

Circa 1980s
23mm Diameter
Case, bracelet, and clasp signed.

$20,000 - 40,000 

Sold for $75,600

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros

Head of Watches, Americas

+1 (212) 940-1293


The 2021 New York Watch Auction

New York Auction 11 - 12 December 2021