Cartier - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX Hong Kong Saturday, November 23, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Cartier
    Year: Circa 1920's
    Movement No: 415’036
    Case No: 20’997, further stamped with movement number“415’036”, gas screw stamped “04’650 and “806”; case number repeated inside caseback and stamped “806”
    Material: 18K yellow gold and enamel
    Calibre: Manual, European Watch and Clock Co. Inc, 15 jewels
    Dimensions: 45.5mm height x 32.1mm length
    Signed: Case and dial signed. Movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc.
    Literature: A similar example is prominently illustrated in Le Temps de Cartier by Jader Barracca, Giampiero Negretti and Franco Nencini, p 149

  • Catalogue Essay

    While Art Deco vanity cases by Cartier were extremely successful during the 1920s amongst the ladies, the Cartier brothers also created pieces for men during the interwar years. While smoking had been de rigueur for decades with pipes and cigars for a gentleman, packaged cigarettes grew in popularity for its convenience.

    In an attempt to reach a wider clientele base, Cartier established a new division to provide a larger range of beautiful yet functional objects, The Department S. S stood for silver, the division at that time aimed to provide a relatively more ‘affordable’ range of items, the collection eventually flourished into wider range of materials as demand grew. Charles Jacqueau was the head of Department S and thus, designs for unusual objects from letter openers, cigarette cases, writing instruments and lighters all incorporated with a watch were born. Part of the high society, Louis Cartier would often offer chaps cigarettes at parties from his chic Cartier case, or a light from his gold Cartier lighter, he was his own ambassador for his products. A perfect specimen from the era, the present Art Deco lighter travels back in time. A lighter and a watch at the same time, the pin striped yellow gold case decorated with enamel was made in Paris. A fascinating and witty creation with sartorial splendor, the present object is preserved with crisp hallmarks and corresponding numbers stamped throughout, furthermore the elegant blued Breguet hands are powered by a European Watch and Clock Co movement.

  • Artist Biography

    Cartier

    French

    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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Property of a Gentleman

1025

A rare and elegant yellow gold art deco lighter watch with enamel

Circa 1920's
45.5mm height x 32.1mm length
Case and dial signed. Movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc.

Estimate
HK$40,000 - 80,000 
€4,700-9,400
$5,100-10,300

Sold for HK$444,500

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX

Hong Kong Auction 23 - 24 November 2024