Cartier - The Geneva Watch Auction: XX Geneva Saturday, November 9, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Cartier
    Year: Circa 1925
    Movement No: 278'941
    Case No: 26767, 14273 and 7096
    Model Name: Cintrée
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 460-1B, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Lizard
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp stamped "7096"
    Dimensions: 22.5mm Length and 45.5mm Width
    Signed: Case, dial movement and clasp signed, case and clasp with matching Cartier hand stamped numbers

  • Catalogue Essay

    Introduced in 1921, the Tank Cintrée model was the largest and boldest variation of Cartier’s Tank line. With its long, slender, and gracefully arching case, the Cintrée is without a doubt one of the most beautiful watches made during the 20th century. The Cintrée’s highly curved case was designed to hug the curves of the wrist. The expansive dial and case combine straight lines, sensual curves, and crisp angles, resulting in a ‘modern’ wristwatch with a design far ahead of its time - so much so, in fact, that the design has spawned multiple re-editions; the latest one, released in 2021, being a virtually perfect replica of the vintage model.

    The case is particularly large for a 1920s watch, with the rectangular curved case sitting incredibly well on the wrist, showcasing Cartier's eye for design and proportions. Even the clasp displays the same number as the case, attesting to the fact it was delivered to the watch.

    Interestingly, it is most probable that the timepiece was made in France and sold in London, as seen by the French hallmarks on the case and the two dots flanking the outside case number, which is a sign the watch was retailed in London. Yet the design of the dial remains firmly "London" with the exploding Roman numerals and the absence of the outer track on the dial. This shows that during the early part of the 20th century, the different branches of Cartier (London, New York and France) were working with each other and not operating in silos, whether it be by sharing designs, stock and production among the three Cartier brothers.

  • Artist Biography

    Cartier

    French

    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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Σ127

A rare and attractive yellow gold curved wristwatch with Roman numerals

Circa 1925
22.5mm Length and 45.5mm Width
Case, dial movement and clasp signed, case and clasp with matching Cartier hand stamped numbers

Estimate
CHF40,000 - 80,000 
€42,600-85,100
$46,500-93,000

Sold for CHF76,200

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
aghotbi@phillips.com

 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

tto@phillips.com

 

 

The Geneva Watch Auction: XX

Geneva Auction 9 - 10 November 2024