Manufacturer: Cartier Year: 1972 Case No: 75'949 and 21'464 Model Name: Oblong and Concave Material: 18k yellow gold Calibre: Manual, cal. 59 signed Ebel Watch Co. 17 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Leather Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant stamp with Cartier hand stamped numbers and stamped New York Dimensions: 48mm Length and 22mm Width Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed Accessories: Accompanied by a copy of Cartier Certificate of Authenticity confirming production of the present watch in 1972.
Catalogue Essay
Halfway between a contemporary sculpture and a watch, this amazing piece of art embodies Cartier’s boundless creativity of the 70s. Some of us may see in this piece the same inspiration that led to architectural designs such as Marc Newson’s Lounge Chair, others will see this watch as an ode to feminine beauty of the era. The eye is at first caught by the sensual curves of the case then by the contrast between the satin and mirror finish reciprocation between the dial, the top and sides of the case.
The sculptural yellow gold case described by the brand as oblong and concave is in an amazing condition. Made in France, this timepiece was designed for the American market as signed on the folding deployant clasp. Furthermore it was originally offered at auction with a Cartier certificate confirming that it was retailed by Cartier New York.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.
