Manufacturer: Cartier Year: Circa 1940 Case No: 22'463, 4875 and 27'793 Model Name: Grande Tank Cintrée Material: 18K yellow gold Calibre: Manual, Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre, 18 jewels Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow and pink gold Carter deployant clasp Dimensions: 46.5mm Length and 23mm Width Signed: Case, movement and buckle signed, outside caseback with French hallmarks and EJ for Edmond Jaeger, clasp with Cartier hand stamped numbers
Catalogue Essay
Introduced in 1921, the 9-ligne, Grand Tank Cintrée model was the largest and boldest variation of Cartier’s Tank line. With its long, slender, and gracefully arching case, the Cintrée is without a doubt one of the most beautiful watches made during the 20th century. Measuring a dramatic 46.5mm long by 23mm wide, the Cintrée’s highly curved case was designed to hug the curves of the wrist. The expansive dial and case combine straight lines, sensual curves, and crisp angles, resulting in a ‘modern’ wristwatch with a design far ahead of its time - so much so, in fact, that the design has spawned multiple re-editions; the latest one, just released in 2021, being a virtually perfect replica of the vintage model here exemplified.
The most impressive vintage version of Cartier’s iconic Tank model is revered for its gentlemanly elegance. Retailed at Cartier Paris, the case displays the maker's mark "EJ" and French hallmarks. Most notably, the present watch was retailed by Cartier London, as confirmed by the two dots flanking the outside case number, which is a sign the watch was retailed in the London branch.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.
A rare, large and attractive curved yellow gold wristwatch with French hallmarks
Circa 1940 46.5mm Length and 23mm Width Case, movement and buckle signed, outside caseback with French hallmarks and EJ for Edmond Jaeger, clasp with Cartier hand stamped numbers