Cartier - The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE Geneva Friday, May 12, 2017 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Cartier
    Year: circa 1920
    Movement No: 1783 16'644
    Case No: 10'875, dial further numbered 30'369
    Model Name: "Nain Jaune"
    Material: 18k white gold
    Calibre: Manual, 19 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Satin
    Clasp/Buckle: White and yellow gold folding deployant clasp set with diamonds and onyx
    Dimensions: 30mm. Diameter on the outer section
    Signed: Dial and movement signed
    Literature: Another Nain Jaune example is illustrated in "La Collection Cartier" by F. Chaille and F. Coloni page 120.

  • Catalogue Essay

    When it comes to designing watches for women, many brands simply chose to reduce the size of the case to adjust to a smaller wrist, but not Cartier! With its long history as a jeweler, Cartier puts as much attention in the designs of their ladies’ timepieces as they do in their lavish jewelry. Over time, some of the brand’s creations have become more iconic than others, this is the case for the boundless creativity driven by the Art Deco era. Under the skillful pen of the designer, materials such as diamond, white gold and onyx would come to life, giving birth to iconic watches or pieces of jewelry such as the present watch. The elegance of the star shaped case made of two squares alternating black onyx and white dial circled by diamonds leaves us speechless.

    Whilst some pieces of this era found their design cues in architecture, this watch was inspired by something much more unusual: a board game. Named “Nain Jaune” this collection reinterprets the two squares of the famous French board game that was very popular between the two wars. Only produced in very low numbers, they were made for a very exclusive clientele and are now considered true gems by the discerning collectors. Presented today in excellent overall condition, this watch would be the perfect addition to a haute couture black cocktail dress for a night at the opera.

  • Artist Biography



    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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A extremely elegant white gold, diamond and onyx star shaped lady's wristwatch

circa 1920
30mm. Diameter on the outer section
Dial and movement signed

CHF50,000 - 100,000 

Sold for CHF81,250

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE

Geneva Auctions 13 – 14 May 2017