Cartier - The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE Geneva Friday, May 12, 2017 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Cartier
    Year: circa 1920
    Case No: 5' 982 further engraved 6'305. Inner case stamped 9'743
    Model Name: "Montre de poche à heures sautantes"
    Material: Platinum and diamonds
    Calibre: Manual, 16''', 19 jewels
    Dimensions: 45mm. Diameter
    Signed: Dial and movement signed, case with hand stamped Cartier numbers and stamped EJ (Edmond Jaeger)
    Accessories: Accompanied by a matching match holder and a chain.

  • Catalogue Essay

    It is always interesting to see how Cartier, first and foremost a genius jeweler, tackled the daunting task of watchmaking. It comes as no surprise that his philosophy in his timepieces was the same that he applied for this jewelry: flamboyance and Parisian chic without a shred of compromise.

    The present lot in platinum features a playful jump hour mechanism with a long blue minutes hand and a window on the upper part of the dial indicating the hours on a beautifully graphic silver guilloche dial.

    The caseband is fully set with with a row of dazzling diamonds. The diamonds are not the only element that attracts the eye; in fact they underline the thinness of the case, a style very popular during the Roaring Twenties, also called couteau (knife in French).

    The present lot also comes with a matching chain adorned with pearls; the other end of the chain is attached to a matching match holder also featuring a diamond set band and matching coat of arms.

    In superb condition, this lot entices with its superb condition and artistic significance beautifully embodying the panache of Paris in the 20s.

  • Artist Biography



    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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A fine and rare platinum, enamel and diamond open face jump hour pocketwatch with matching match holder and enamel coated chain with pearls

circa 1920
45mm. Diameter
Dial and movement signed, case with hand stamped Cartier numbers and stamped EJ (Edmond Jaeger)

CHF15,000 - 25,000 

Sold for CHF37,500

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE

Geneva Auctions 13 – 14 May 2017