Widely known as the “jeweler of kings and the king of jewelers”, Cartier was established in 1847 and has an incredibly rich history with wristwatches. In 1904, Cartier created the world’s first wristwatch that incorporated integrated lugs, for the renowned aviator Alberto Santos Dumont. Soon to follow was arguably the firm’s most iconic design, the Tank – immediately recognizable by its elegant, elongated rectangular shape.
Designed by Louis Cartier in 1917 near the end of World War I, the Tank was inspired by the top view of the very first Renault military tank vehicle deployed that same year, hence its charismatic name, “The Tank”. Legend has it that early Tank Watches were offered by Cartier to General John Pershing of the American Expeditionary Force and his officers.
Characterized by its balanced proportions and beautiful symmetry, the Tank has remained a classic since its inception. To this day, it is an important product line for Cartier. The brilliantly designed cases combine sensual curves and straight lines, and feature two vertical sidebars known as “brancards”. Very fine screws secure their case and straps – an aesthetically pleasing detail that is also highly functional. Epitomizing the elegance, the Tank’s dial is timeless, most often featuring empire-style roman numerals, a “chemin-de-fer” chapter ring for the minutes, and blued-steel hour and minute hands. In a fitting nod to Cartier's prestigious jeweler roots, the sapphire-capped winding crowns often complement the blued-steel hands.
Early examples were fitted with movements signed European Watch and Clock Company - exquisitely finished movements made exclusively for Cartier by Edmond Jaeger in partnership with the watchmaking firm LeCoultre.
Adored by many public figures and celebrities throughout its history, the tank has adorned on the wrists of both men and women including Cary Grant, Frank Sinatra, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Andy Warhol, Calvin Klein, Yves Saint Laurent, Alain Prost, Ralph Lauren, and The Maharajah of Patiala, just to name a few.
For further reading on the history of the Cartier Tank, we recommend reading “Cartier The Tank Watch” by Franco Cologni.
137
A fine and extremely rare curved platinum wristwatch with movement by European Watch Clock and Co
Circa 1929
21mm. Width and 36mm. Length
Dial signed, case further stamped with Cartier hand stamped numbers, movement signed European Watch Clock and Co.
Estimate
CHF20,000 - 30,000
€18,500-27,800
$19,800-29,700
Sold for CHF25,000