Manufacturer: Cartier Year: 2001 Reference No: 2646 Case No: N°027CE, W1540551, 0096MG2485D Model Name: Tortue Quantième Perpétuel Collection Privée Material: Platinum Calibre: Automatic, cal. 9421MC, 26 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Crocodile Clasp/Buckle: 18k white gold Cartier folding clasp Dimensions: 42.5mm x 34mm Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed Accessories: Accompanied by Cartier presentation box and Certificate confirming date of sale on October 31, 2001
Catalogue Essay
Cartier is one of those magical names that immediately bring to mind a bygone era of lavish lifestyle and Parisian chic. A rare jewelry brand whose horological creations also speak to savvy collectors, Cartier often delves into its rich archives to reinterpret icons of the past. Accordingly, Cartier introduced their ‘Collection Privée, Cartier Paris,’ between 1998-2008, in recognition of the demand for vintage style models.
Part of this CPCP collection, the present lot features a Tortue case which, invented by Cartier in 1912, is a reworked tonneau shape with shorter lugs and a wider center resembling a turtle’s shell, thus the name Tortue.
Featuring a full perpetual calendar and a dual timezone indicator, it is a perfect example of Parisian excellence in design merging with Swiss horological rigueur in terms of movement pedigree.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.