28Σ︎
Cartier
Oblong and Concave
An extremely rare, sculptural, and very attractive yellow gold "Oblong and Concave" wristwatch
Full-Cataloguing
• Sculptural wristwatch in yellow gold
• Exceptionally rare
• Very well-preserved, dating to circa 1970s
Halfway between a contemporary sculpture and a watch, this amazing piece of art embodies Cartier’s boundless creativity of the 1970s. Some of us may see in this piece the same inspiration that led to architectural designs such as Marc Newson’s Lounge Chair, others will see this watch as an ode to feminine beauty of the era. The eye is at first caught by the sensual curves of the case, then by the contrast between the satin and mirror finish reciprocation between the dial, the top and sides of the case.
The sculptural yellow gold case described by the brand as “oblong and concave” is preserved in superb condition, with incredibly crisp hallmarks and case numbers stamped to the caseback, and sharp facets to the edge of the case.
Phillips sold a remarkably similar example in the identical configuration, with a similar combination of French hallmarks and hand-stamped numbers to the caseback, at the Geneva Watch Auction: XX in November 2024. The Cartier certificate for that example dated it to 1972. Given that the present example bears the subsequent case numbers, it most probably came from the same batch.
Cartier
FrenchWith the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.