8066

Cartier

No. 16'623, Tortue

An extremely rare and unusual platinum and yellow gold tortue-shaped wristwatch

HK$60,000 - 120,000
€6,600 - 13,200
$7,700 - 15,400
(9 bids)
HK$130,000
Lot Details
Cartier
Circa 1926
16'623
No. 16'623, Tortue
Platinum and 18K yellow gold
Manual, European Watch & Clock. Co movement, 18 jewels
Leather
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp, stamped ‘New York’
25mm width x 31.5mm length
Dial, movement and clasp signed
Accompanied by associated Cartier travel pouch and product literature.
Catalogue Essay
- This unusual timepiece exemplifies Cartier’s mastery of both design and watchmaking in the early 20th century. The first Cartier tonneau-shaped wristwatch was introduced in 1906 and officially produced since 1912, predating even the Tank.

- The present tortue-shaped time-only wristwatch dating to circa 1926 is an extremely rare find. At its heart beats a refined movement, signed by European Watch & Clock Co. The case remains exceptionally well-preserved with crisp hallmarks still visible. Encased in a platinum case with a yellow gold caseback and distinctive lugs – the only example known in this configuration, the watch is further distinguished by a yellow gold clasp stamped “New York.”

- The dial is classically Cartier with its signature Roman numerals and rail minute track, signed France. Last appeared at auction for the first time in 2021, this vintage timepiece is a true synthesis of rarity, preservation, and artistry from the maison of Cartier.

Cartier

French

With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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