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8039

Cartier

Ref. 67'081

Ellipse

An exquisite yellow gold tonneau-shaped wristwatch with ruby-set case, yellow diamond-set bezel, diamond-set crown, and presentation box

Estimate
HK$80,000 - 160,000
€8,800 - 17,500
$10,300 - 20,500
HK$120,650
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Cartier
Year
Circa 1970s, Switzerland
Reference No
67'081
Case No
3’198
Model Name
Ellipse
Material
18K yellow gold, rubies and yellow diamonds
Calibre
Manual, cal. 2412, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Satin
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp, stamped “I 63287”
Dimensions
22mm height x 26mm width
Signed
Case, dial and clasp signed
Accessories
Accompanied by fitted presentation box.
Catalogue Essay
• The Cartier Ellipse, ref. 67081, is the smaller version of ref. 78091 from the 1973 Louis Cartier Collection, a pivotal series that helped redefine Cartier’s watchmaking identity during a period of creative renewal. This collection was born from Cartier’s strategic restructuring and the commercial success of its Must line, which revitalised the brand’s image and broadened its appeal. Reference 67081 features a horizontally oriented oval case, offered in 18K white or yellow gold, as seen in the present example. In the mid-1970s, Cartier introduced the “Deux Ors” variant, combining both gold tones in a two-tone case, followed by quartz models in the 1980s.

• The Louis Cartier Collection was known for its diversity of shapes and sizes. The Ellipse distinguished itself with its elegant and minimalist design, and was paired with its larger counterpart, ref.78091, which housed the manual-wind Cartier calibre 78-1. Both versions shared the refined design codes of the collection, including Roman numeral enamel dials, sword hands, and 18K gold cases. While the larger Ellipse is more commonly discussed among collectors, the smaller ref. 67081 offers a more discreet and feminine interpretation, making it a rare and desirable piece for vintage Cartier enthusiasts.

• The present watch is a particularly striking example of ref. 67081. What truly sets this timepiece apart is its mesmerising ruby-set case and yellow diamond-set bezel, which elevate its elegance to a level rarely seen in vintage Cartier watches. The vivid red of the rubies contrasts beautifully with the warm glow of the yellow diamonds and the cabochon is decorated with a diamond, creating a luxurious and visually captivating composition. This jewelled execution not only enhances the watch’s aesthetic appeal but also underscores Cartier’s legacy as a master of both horology and high jewellery. Further enhancing its charm and originality, the watch is paired with its original red satin straps, which complement the ruby-set case and reinforce the cohesive, opulent design. Altogether, the present example represents a rare fusion of refined design, exceptional craftsmanship, and period authenticity, making it a true treasure for any seasoned collector.

Cartier

French
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 
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