Cartier and Audemars Piguet - The New York Watch Auction: NINE New York Saturday, December 9, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Cartier and Audemars Piguet
    Year: Circa 1970s
    Movement No: 117'783
    Case No: 61’549
    Model Name: Maxi Oval
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal. K2050, 20 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Case, dial, and buckle signed Cartier, movement signed Audemars Piguet.
    Dimensions: 28mm width x 56mm length
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and deployant buckle signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Cartier’s rich history holds immense importance in the realm of vintage wristwatch design, representing a profound legacy of innovation, elegance, and sophistication. From pioneering the use of platinum in jewelry-making to introducing the first mens’ wristwatch, the “Santos,” in 1904, Cartier has continuously reshaped the landscape of horology. Their trailblazing spirit is epitomized by their iconic Tank, Baignoire, and Tortue collections, which revolutionized wristwatch design with their unique shapes, bold lines, and timeless elegance.

    The present watch is an extremely rare and impressive example of the “Maxi Oval” sold by Cartier New York during the early 1970s. While similar in appearance to the ‘Maxi Oval’ series by Cartier London, the present watch is distinguished by its larger case and elongated Roman numerals, often attracting greater interest from collectors. The daring styling, with a highly curved, convex case, and bold Roman numerals captured the spirit of the late 1960s and early 1970s, when brands were experimenting with bold designs to make their mechanical watches stand out against the threat of low-cost quartz watches.

    Inside is a superb, manually wound movement made and signed by Audemars Piguet. Some scholars believe that Audemars Piguet may have made the watch in its entirety as a private label for Cartier due to the challenging financial climate at the time brought on by the Quartz Crisis. Preserved in outstanding, original condition with a pristine dial and the original Cartier deployant buckle, the present watch is a “best of both worlds” timepiece, combining the best of Cartier’s emblematic designs with the exquisite watchmaking of Audemars Piguet.

53

An extremely rare, oversized, and important yellow gold oval-shaped wristwatch

Circa 1970s
28mm width x 56mm length
Case, dial, movement, and deployant buckle signed

Estimate
$40,000 - 80,000 
CHF35,300-70,500
€36,500-73,000
HK$312,000-624,000
S$53,500-107,000

Sold for $120,650

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Deputy Chairman and Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
WatchesNY@Phillips.com
 
Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: NINE

New York Auction 9 - 10 December 2023