Breguet - The Geneva Watch Auction: XVIII Geneva Friday, November 3, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Breguet
    Year: Circa 1995
    Reference No: 3237
    Movement No: 1039
    Case No: 1104 E
    Material: 18K yellow gold and lapis lazuli
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 533, 21 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Breguet pin buckle
    Dimensions: 36mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by blank Certificat d'Origin et de guarantee and Swatch Group Japan service invoice dated February 28, 2023 and service card. Furthermore accompanied by Breguet booklet, box and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Reference 3237 was in production for most of the 1990s, and it is without a doubt a champion of the era, interpreting it flawlessly thanks to the coin-edge case and engine-turned dial.

    In fact, engine turning is one of the defining design traits of the brand, featuring a history within the company which harkens back to the very first timepieces made by Mr. A.L. Breguet himself. Thus it is not surprising to find such a decoration in this timepiece. What is instead well beyond surprising and closer to mind-blowing is the incredible additional decoration we find on the present watch.

    Immediately apparent even at the most cursory glance, the minute and hour tracks are printed in silver over a solid lapis lazuli. The aesthetic impact of this detail - which comes to dominate and dictate the looks of the entire watch - cannot be overstate, as cannot be overstated the technical achievement of cutting out the lapis lazuli wafer in this very specific and unusual shape.

    If looks and technical prowess boost the attractiveness of the piece, its rarity propels it above any other representative of the model. Lapis lazuli is a material hardly ever used by Breguet, which as mentioned before relies usually on engine-turning for its dial decoration, making this watch (so far the only known example in this configuration) one of the most elusive and collectible representative not only of this reference but of the entire Breguet modern production as well.

  • Artist Biography

    Breguet

    Swiss • 1775

    Established in 1775 by Abraham Louis Breguet, widely considered the greatest watchmaker of all time, the storied brand continues to thrive in the modern era, creating exceptional high-end watches as the Swatch Group's premier prestige brand. Some of the most important and lasting inventions in watchmaking are attributed to Abraham Louis Breguet, including the tourbillon, shock resistance and the use of hammers and gongs employed in nearly all minute repeating watches made since.

    Eighteenth and nineteenth century Breguet pocketwatches are especially sought-after by collectors, and many of them were made for the elite of European society, including Napoléon and Marie Antoinette. Key wristwatches from the twentieth century include oversized dress watches, two-register chronographs, triple calendars and Type XX aviator's chronographs made for the French military and civilians.

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Lot offered with No Reserve

Ref. 3237
An enormously attractive and rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with lapis lazuli hour and minute track, certificate of origin and presentation box

Circa 1995
36mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate
CHF10,000 - 20,000 
€10,400-20,800
$11,000-22,000

Sold for CHF146,050

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
AGhotbi@phillips.com

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88
TiffanyTo@phillips.com

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The Geneva Watch Auction: XVIII

Geneva Auction 3 - 4 November 2023