Breguet - The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE Geneva Friday, May 12, 2017 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Breguet
    Year: 1956
    Reference No: 1539
    Case No: 139'215
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. AS 1396N, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel pin buckle
    Dimensions: 35mm. Diameter
    Signed: Dial and movement signed.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Collectors and enthusiasts are well aware that Abraham Louis Breguet revolutionized watchmaking, thanks to his numerous technical innovations, but a little known fact is that he also completely rethought watch design by toning down the lavish designs that were the goût du jour within the European aristocracy. In a way he applied the philosophy of “less is more” almost 200 years before the founder of minimalist architecture 1947 Ludwig Mies van der Rohe coined the phrase in 1947.

    The present lot bears the Breguet DNA of sotto voce elegance, the curvaceous three-piece case with its elongated lugs provide a nonchalante wrist presence whereas the yellow gold numerals and hands add a dash of flamboyance. The date is placed in a very original manner at 12.

    Beating inside is the A. Schild caliber 1396N. Adolph Schild began producing watch movements in Grenchen Switzerland in 1896 and by the late 1950s was Switzerland’s largest ebauche manufacturer only specialized in time only movements.

    The present lot is a spectacular example of Breguet's exquisite style, made during an era when Breguet was concentrating its efforts on producing Type XX chronographs for the French naval forces. Accordingly, it’s exceptionally rare – especially as one of a very small number of dress watches made by Breguet in the 1960s, making it a superb addition for the connoisseur.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1775

    Established in 1775 by Abraham Louis Breguet, widely considered the greatest watchmaker of all time, the storied brand continues to thrive in the modern era, creating exceptional high-end watches as the Swatch Group's premier prestige brand. Some of the most important and lasting inventions in watchmaking are attributed to Abraham Louis Breguet, including the tourbillon, shock resistance and the use of hammers and gongs employed in nearly all minute repeating watches made since.

    Eighteenth and nineteenth century Breguet pocketwatches are especially sought-after by collectors, and many of them were made for the elite of European society, including Napoléon and Marie Antoinette. Key wristwatches from the twentieth century include oversized dress watches, two-register chronographs, triple calendars and Type XX aviator's chronographs made for the French military and civilians.

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Ref. 1539
A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds and unusual date indication at 12 o'clock

35mm. Diameter
Dial and movement signed.

CHF15,000 - 25,000 

Sold for CHF30,000

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE

Geneva Auctions 13 – 14 May 2017