Manufacturer: Breguet Year: circa 1960 Case No: 3375 Model Name: Type XX Material: Stainless steel Calibre: Manual, cal. 225, 17 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Leather Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel pin buckle Dimensions: 38.5mm diameter Signed: Dial signed
Catalogue Essay
The Breguet “Type XX” is most probably the best known military chronograph. The “type” designation was not a specific model name for a particular brand, but rather it was the military specification commissioned by the French Government seeking accurate timekeeping for both their Air Force and Navy. They sought a multi-purpose chronograph wristwatch with fly-back function, which allowed the user to quickly reset and restart the chronograph all from the single push of a button on the case. Breguet started supplying these models to the French Air Force and Navy in the 1950s.
The black dial on the present watch features three subsidiary dials, a robust 38.5mm case and rotating bezel. As the timepiece was originally intended for military purposes, it was fitted with luminous Arabic hour markers and hands for quick and easy readability also in darkness.
The model and specifications evolved over time, and when the timepieces became too expensive for the French Government, Breguet opted to sell them as commercial watches. Recreational flying had gained in popularity, and it would come as no surprise that due to the robust and practical construction of the Type XX, it became a preferred choice for civilian pilots.
This example is an outstanding representation of a Breguet from the 1960s, and one that will provide enduring value to the savvy collector.
Established in 1775 by Abraham Louis Breguet, widely considered the greatest watchmaker of all time, the storied brand continues to thrive in the modern era, creating exceptional high-end watches as the Swatch Group's premier prestige brand. Some of the most important and lasting inventions in watchmaking are attributed to Abraham Louis Breguet, including the tourbillon, shock resistance and the use of hammers and gongs employed in nearly all minute repeating watches made since.
Eighteenth and nineteenth century Breguet pocketwatches are especially sought-after by collectors, and many of them were made for the elite of European society, including Napoléon and Marie Antoinette. Key wristwatches from the twentieth century include oversized dress watches, two-register chronographs, triple calendars and Type XX aviator's chronographs made for the French military and civilians.