Breguet - START-STOP-RESET: 88 Epic Stainless Steel Chronographs Geneva Friday, May 13, 2016 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Breguet
    Year: 1962
    Case No: 615
    Model Name: Type XX “Big Eye”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Manual, cal. Valjoux 222, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel buckle
    Dimensions: 38mm diameter
    Signed: Dial signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    In 1775, Abraham-Louis Breguet, widely considered the greatest watchmaker to ever live, founded Breguet in Paris. In 1810, he produced the company’s first wristwatch. His fourth generation descendant would later found the French aircraft manufacturer, Breguet Aviation – makers of Europe’s best warplanes during WWI and WWII. The family tie would lead Breguet to supply the coveted Type XX military watches to the French military under their commission. Between 1954 and 1970, Breguet delivered the Type XX to the French Navy and Air Force.

    Serial number 615 is known as the “Big Eye” due to its oversized 15-minute chronograph register. The so-called “tropical” dial has aged to a lovely shade of mocha and features large luminous Arabic hour markers and its original matching luminous hands. At half a century old, it is an extremely rare Type XX wristwatch variant due to its rotating metal bezel. The thick and robust 38 mm case houses the Valjoux caliber 222 featuring the ultra-desirable fly-back function, and protected by the original dust cover. This complication provided improved accuracy for aviators by no longer requiring the wearer to use the stop function prior to resetting the chronograph.

    The present watch is an outstanding example of this highly sought after model. It is preserved in excellent, original condition and would be the perfect addition to any collection. It provides the vintage watch aficionado both wearability, exclusivity and history.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1775

    Established in 1775 by Abraham Louis Breguet, widely considered the greatest watchmaker of all time, the storied brand continues to thrive in the modern era, creating exceptional high-end watches as the Swatch Group's premier prestige brand. Some of the most important and lasting inventions in watchmaking are attributed to Abraham Louis Breguet, including the tourbillon, shock resistance and the use of hammers and gongs employed in nearly all minute repeating watches made since.

    Eighteenth and nineteenth century Breguet pocketwatches are especially sought-after by collectors, and many of them were made for the elite of European society, including Napoléon and Marie Antoinette. Key wristwatches from the twentieth century include oversized dress watches, two-register chronographs, triple calendars and Type XX aviator's chronographs made for the French military and civilians.

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An extremely rare, highly attractive and large stainless steel fly-back chronograph wristwatch with ‘tropical dial’, oversized register at three o’clock position and rotating bezel.

38mm diameter
Dial signed

CHF15,000 - 30,000 

Sold for CHF40,000

Contact Specialist
Livia Russo
+41 22 317 81 86

START-STOP-RESET: 88 Epic Stainless Steel Chronographs

Geneva Auction 14 May 2016