US import tariffs: Non-US origin lots in this sale (including watches and timepieces with Swiss-made or non-US made movements) will be subject to special tariffs upon import to the USA, currently ranging from 10% to 39% on the total invoice price (hammer price plus buyer’s premium). Buyers are responsible for paying any applicable tariffs, duties, taxes and charges when importing their purchased lots. Due to the evolving nature of international trade regulations, we recommend clients consult with their local customs office or advisor for up-to-date information on the applicable tariffs.
150
Breguet
Type XX "Esso"
An exquisitely well-preserved, charismatic and important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black luminous dial, luminous hands, and engraved caseback, made for Esso
- Estimate
- CHF30,000 - 60,000€32,400 - 64,700$37,700 - 75,400
CHF76,200
Lot Details
- Manufacturer
- Breguet
- Year
- Circa 1957
- Case No
- 3056 (engraved to the outside of the back, and stamped inside)
- Model Name
- Type XX "Esso"
- Material
- Stainless steel
- Calibre
- Manual, cal. Valjoux 225, 17 jewels
- Bracelet/Strap
- Leather
- Clasp/Buckle
- Stainless steel pin buckle
- Dimensions
- 38.5mm Diameter
- Signed
- Dial signed
- Accessories
- Accompanied by Breguet Extract confirming sale of the present watch on 24 November, 1957 to ESSO STANDARD for the price of 44,100 French Francs
Specialist
Full-Cataloguing
Catalogue Essay
Type XX military chronographs began production in the 1950s. The “type” designation was not model-specific to any one brand, but rather a military specification commissioned by the French Government.
The requirement was for a multi-purpose wristwatch, suitable for both aviation and aerial navigation. The black dial on the present watch features three subsidiary dials, a robust 38.5mm case and rotating bezel. Intended for military purposes, it was fitted with luminous Arabic hour markers and luminous hands for quick and easy readability in darkness. It was a pleasure for our specialists to realize the material is original radium, and aged to a highly attractive sand tonality.
A superb watch in its own right, this particular Type XX is made even more special by its “Esso” engraving to the back. It was a relative common custom during the second half of the past century for corporations to request from brands custom watches – most often simply bearing the name of the company on the dial or, as in this instance, back; at times escalating to technical modifications such as the Sea-Dweller for Comex or the GMT-Master for PanAm, both of them Rolex efforts.
Research with Breguet indicates that the present watch was sold on November 24, 1957 to ESSO STANDARD for the price of 44,100 French Francs. Research has showed that Esso had previously bought watches for rallies that they sponsored, notably for the winner of the Monte-Carlo Rally in 1959. Phillips had also previously sold another Esso engraved example, owned by Sir Jack Brabham. Brabham was given his watch in 1960 after winning his first Formula One championship.
This example is an outstanding representation of a rare civilian 1960s Breguet, and one that will provide enduring value to the savvy collector. The superb condition, originality and customized caseback this watch boasts are sure to satisfy the demands of even the most refined collectors.
The requirement was for a multi-purpose wristwatch, suitable for both aviation and aerial navigation. The black dial on the present watch features three subsidiary dials, a robust 38.5mm case and rotating bezel. Intended for military purposes, it was fitted with luminous Arabic hour markers and luminous hands for quick and easy readability in darkness. It was a pleasure for our specialists to realize the material is original radium, and aged to a highly attractive sand tonality.
A superb watch in its own right, this particular Type XX is made even more special by its “Esso” engraving to the back. It was a relative common custom during the second half of the past century for corporations to request from brands custom watches – most often simply bearing the name of the company on the dial or, as in this instance, back; at times escalating to technical modifications such as the Sea-Dweller for Comex or the GMT-Master for PanAm, both of them Rolex efforts.
Research with Breguet indicates that the present watch was sold on November 24, 1957 to ESSO STANDARD for the price of 44,100 French Francs. Research has showed that Esso had previously bought watches for rallies that they sponsored, notably for the winner of the Monte-Carlo Rally in 1959. Phillips had also previously sold another Esso engraved example, owned by Sir Jack Brabham. Brabham was given his watch in 1960 after winning his first Formula One championship.
This example is an outstanding representation of a rare civilian 1960s Breguet, and one that will provide enduring value to the savvy collector. The superb condition, originality and customized caseback this watch boasts are sure to satisfy the demands of even the most refined collectors.
Breguet
Swiss | 1775 Established in 1775 by Abraham Louis Breguet, widely considered the greatest watchmaker of all time, the storied brand continues to thrive in the modern era, creating exceptional high-end watches as the Swatch Group's premier prestige brand. Some of the most important and lasting inventions in watchmaking are attributed to Abraham Louis Breguet, including the tourbillon, shock resistance and the use of hammers and gongs employed in nearly all minute repeating watches made since.
Eighteenth and nineteenth century Breguet pocketwatches are especially sought-after by collectors, and many of them were made for the elite of European society, including Napoléon and Marie Antoinette. Key wristwatches from the twentieth century include oversized dress watches, two-register chronographs, triple calendars and Type XX aviator's chronographs made for the French military and civilians.
Browse MakerEighteenth and nineteenth century Breguet pocketwatches are especially sought-after by collectors, and many of them were made for the elite of European society, including Napoléon and Marie Antoinette. Key wristwatches from the twentieth century include oversized dress watches, two-register chronographs, triple calendars and Type XX aviator's chronographs made for the French military and civilians.