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201

Breguet

Ref. 3050

An exquisite and remarkable yellow gold perpetual calendar automatic wristwatch with moonphases, leap year indication, engine-turned dial and bracelet

Estimate
CHF20,000 - 40,000
€21,600 - 43,200
$25,100 - 50,200
CHF40,640
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
Circa 1990
Reference No
3050
Movement No
89
Case No
2889
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k yellow gold Gilbert Gaschen integrated woven bracelet, max length 200mm
Clasp/Buckle
18k yellow gold Gilbert Gaschen buckle
Dimensions
36mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed; clasp signed by bracelet maker
Catalogue Essay
An integrated bracelet upgrade to the “standard” Breguet perpetual calendar, ref. 3050BA appears to be extremely elusive. Beyond the present example extremely few other specimens are known; the latest one we could find traded on the auction market dating back to April 2004.

A champion of its era and brand like few others, the present piece takes the very symmetric dial layout typical of the 1990s and dresses it in superb Breguet fashion, adorning it with guillochage, sunken subdials, brushed tracks and roman numerals.

The integrated bracelet not only makes this watch extremely uncommon, but it furthermore adds enormous gravitas to the timepiece. An analysis of the buckle reveals an additional secret: it bears a GRG hallmark, identifying the bracelet as the work of Gilbert Gaschen. One of the most remarkably unsung names of vintage watchmaking, the quality of his bracelets are on par with the most hallowed names of the field such as Gay Frères, Ecoffey and Ponti-Gennari. In fact the company was a supplier for many notable brands such as Rolex and Audemars Piguet who employed their services for the realization of the bracelet of their “Cobra” timepieces.

Breguet

Swiss | 1775
Established in 1775 by Abraham Louis Breguet, widely considered the greatest watchmaker of all time, the storied brand continues to thrive in the modern era, creating exceptional high-end watches as the Swatch Group's premier prestige brand. Some of the most important and lasting inventions in watchmaking are attributed to Abraham Louis Breguet, including the tourbillon, shock resistance and the use of hammers and gongs employed in nearly all minute repeating watches made since.

Eighteenth and nineteenth century Breguet pocketwatches are especially sought-after by collectors, and many of them were made for the elite of European society, including Napoléon and Marie Antoinette. Key wristwatches from the twentieth century include oversized dress watches, two-register chronographs, triple calendars and Type XX aviator's chronographs made for the French military and civilians.
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