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54

Breguet

Type XX “CEV”

An early, extremely rare and attractive limited edition stainless steel flyback chronograph wristwatch with rotating bezel, numbered 6 of a limited edition of 50 pieces made for Centre d’Essais en Vol

Estimate
HK$62,000 - 120,000
€7,300 - 14,100
$7,900 - 15,400
HK$304,800
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Breguet
Year
Circa 1956
Case No
2461 and CEV issue number 6
Model Name
Type XX “CEV”
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 225, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel unsigned pin buckle
Dimensions
38.5mm diameter
Signed
Dial signed, caseback engraved with CEV issue number
Accessories
Delivered with Breguet Certificate of Authenticity confirming the date of sale on 12th December 1956 to Centre d’Essais en Vol (CEV) for the price of 27,800 French Francs.
Catalogue Essay
The Breguet “Type XX” is arguably the one of the best-known military chronograph. The “type” designation was not a specific model name for any particular brand but rather a military specification commissioned by the French Government, aimed at achieving accurate timekeeping for both their Air Force and Navy. They sought a multi-purpose chronograph wristwatch with a flyback function, allowing the user to quickly reset and restart the chronograph with a single push of a button on the case. Breguet began supplying these models to the French Air Force and Navy in the 1950s.

In addition to its functionality, the caseback provides significant historical context through its engravings and stamps. This example features an inscription starting with “FG”, which stands for “Fin de Garantie”, or end of guarantee in French. These engravings were made by the watchmaker who serviced the watch, informing the pilot of the next recommended service date, in this case, 19th July 1967.

Most notably, from 1956 to 1957, the Centre d’Essais en Vol (CEV) who was responsible for testing aeronautical weapons and aircraft before their use for military or civil purposes, ordered 50 Type XX pieces with three counters. Like the Naval Aviation Forces, the CEV opted for a large 15-minute chronograph counter, but these pieces also included a scaled bezel. The caseback of these models is engraved with “CEV” alongside an issued number.

Offered by a Japanese collector and to further complete the provenance, this watch numbered “CEV 6” is accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity confirming the date of sale on 12th December 1956, to the Centre d’Essais en Vol (CEV).

Breguet

Swiss | 1775
Established in 1775 by Abraham Louis Breguet, widely considered the greatest watchmaker of all time, the storied brand continues to thrive in the modern era, creating exceptional high-end watches as the Swatch Group's premier prestige brand. Some of the most important and lasting inventions in watchmaking are attributed to Abraham Louis Breguet, including the tourbillon, shock resistance and the use of hammers and gongs employed in nearly all minute repeating watches made since.

Eighteenth and nineteenth century Breguet pocketwatches are especially sought-after by collectors, and many of them were made for the elite of European society, including Napoléon and Marie Antoinette. Key wristwatches from the twentieth century include oversized dress watches, two-register chronographs, triple calendars and Type XX aviator's chronographs made for the French military and civilians.
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