Audemars Piguet - The New York Watch Auction: SEVEN New York Saturday, December 10, 2022 | Phillips

Create your first list.

Select an existing list or create a new list to share and manage lots you follow.

  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: Circa 1975
    Reference No: 5402
    Movement No: 158’231
    Case No: B 1468; 99’468
    Model Name: Royal Oak “B Series”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet folding clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet, and clasp signed.
    Accessories: Accompanied by original Audemars Piguet Royal Oak presentation box, a written appraisal from Audemars Piguet dated 1979, original sales receipt from Aronson’s in Newport, Rhode Island dated 1975, and original paid invoice from 1975.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Audemars Piguet commissioned famed designer Gerald Genta for the Royal Oak’s creation, who developed a brilliantly engineered, monobloc case, with a distinctively maritime feel, featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal, white gold screws, and a dial with tapisserie motif. So ground-breaking was the concept, the brand’s competitors believed the watch would bankrupt the company, however the Royal Oak went on to become a design icon, and today accounts for over 70% of the brand's sales. The Royal Oak housed the extra slim caliber 2121, and also used by Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin in their early Nautilus and 222 models.

    The watch became known amongst collectors as the “Jumbo” due to the 39mm diameter case, which at the time was considered very large compared to gentlemen’s dress watches of the time, most of which measured between 33 and 35 mm in diameter. When first released, the Royal Oak reference 5402 featured the “AP” logo at 6 o’clock, compared with later examples with the “AP” logo positioned at 12 o’clock. The Royal Oak model reference 5402 has been produced in four different batches: A, B, C and D with small design details that made each subtly different. Presented in excellent condition, the present "B series" Royal Oak is a rare and extremely sought-after, early example. It is thought that from the original "A-series" production, 2000 pieces were manufactured, while the total production of "B-series" was just 845 examples. The dial is preserved in excellent condition, with the AP logo at 6 o'clock as correctly found on any A and B Series.

    Compounding the rarity and interesting nature of this particular “B-series”, it is accompanied by its original hand-written sales invoice from 1975, purchased from a local jeweler in Newport, Rhode Island. A few years later, we surmise that the owner wrote the Audemars Piguet headquarters, asking for an appraisal, and Audemars Piguet obliged him with a note detailing the current retail value as well as the specificities of the present watch. In stunning original condition, with this original paperwork and original box, this sought-after and well-documented Royal Oak is a peek into the past for the astute collector.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

    View More Works


Ref. 5402
A highly rare and interesting stainless steel “B-Series” wristwatch with date, bracelet, original sales invoice, presentation box, and Extract from the Archives

Circa 1975
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet, and clasp signed.

$40,000 - 80,000 

Sold for $88,200

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros

Head of Watches, Americas

+1 (212) 940-1293


Isabella Proia

Head of Sale, New York

+1 (212) 940 1285


The New York Watch Auction: SEVEN

New York Auction 10 - 11 December 2022