Audemars Piguet - The New York Watch Auction: X New York Saturday, June 8, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: Circa 1990
    Reference No: 25654BA
    Case No: D33024, 924
    Model Name: Royal Oak
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2120/2800, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet integrated bracelet, max length 180mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificat d’Origine et de Garantie booklet, product literature and Bartorelli (at the time, Riccione, Italy Audemars Piguet retailer) service booklet dated 2014.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Reference 25654 replaced the first Royal Oak Perpetual calendar reference 25554 in 1987 and was produced until 1998 in 315 pieces in steel, 430 pieces in yellow gold, 68 pieces in steel and yellow gold and 38 in platinum. It differs from its sibling for a slightly thicker case thickness (8.25mm vs the 7.5mm of ref. 25554) meant to improve its water resistance capabilities. The firm further incorporated the ultra-thin 2120/2800 into the Royal Oak case, making it one of the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wristwatches at the time.

    The present Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 25654BA is a beautifully preserved example, fitted with a highly desirable white MK I (no leap year indication, “old” signature) white dial. Finding a white dial in this model is quite rare - as they usually feature champagne dials. Aesthetically, the watch undergoes a true transformation. Departing from the “full gold” typical look, the white dial dresses down the watch while at the same time rendering it an unusual and rare configuration which will surprise and delight connoisseurs.

    As expected from a MK I dial, it does not include a leap year indication (this feature was only added later, when the movement was updated to the calibre 2120/2802 in 1993) and it features the “old style” AP signature.

    Featuring a very sharp case, original guarantee booklet and a luxurious aesthetic, this watch will grant endless delight to its lucky new owner.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 25654BA
A scarce, luxurious, early and highly collectible yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase, no leap year indication, bracelet, and warranty

Circa 1990
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

$50,000 - 100,000 

Sold for $120,650

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293

Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285

The New York Watch Auction: X

New York Auction 8 - 9 June 2024