Audemars Piguet - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI Hong Kong Wednesday, May 24, 2023 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1990
    Reference No: 25654BA.OO.0944BA.01
    Movement No: 331’407
    Case No: C81’200, No. 666
    Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2120/2800, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold and white gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Delivered with Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives, confirming the registered date of the present timepiece on 12th December 1990.

  • Catalogue Essay

    2022 marked the 50th Anniversary of the Royal Oak, and collectors have come together to celebrate one of the most iconic and coveted models from Audemars Piguet.

    First introduced in 1972, this ingenious Genta design was the firm’s inaugural stainless steel time-only wristwatch, boasting an incredibly modern, sporty aesthetic and an integrated bracelet. An unusual release during the peak of the quartz crisis, this robust timepiece became the true pioneer that set the boom of luxury sports models in motion.

    Reference 25654 replaced the first Royal Oak Perpetual calendar reference 25554 in 1987 and was produced until 1998 in 315 pieces in steel, 430 pieces in yellow gold, 68 pieces in steel and yellow gold and 38 in platinum. It differs from its sibling for a slightly thicker case thickness (8.25mm vs the 7.5mm of ref. 25554) meant to improve its water resistance capabilities. The firm further incorporated the thin yet powerful calibre 2120/2800 into the Royal Oak case, making it one of the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wristwatches at the time.

    The present Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 25654BA is a beautifully preserved example fitted with a highly desirable MK I dial. Its three gold pearled indexes at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock define this distinct dial configuration and its small signature under the moon phase. Furthermore, the MK I dial does not include a leap year indication, and this feature was only added nine years later when the movement was updated to the calibre 2120/2802 in 1993. Blessed with an attractive layer of patina on the case, this rare vintage gem will most certainly appeal to both novice collectors and seasoned connoisseurs.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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954

Ref. 25654BA.OO.0944BA.01
An extremely fine, outstandingly well-preserved and rare yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with MK I dial, moon phases and integrated bracelet

1990
39mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$600,000 - 1,000,000 
€69,300-116,000
$76,900-128,000

Sold for HK$762,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001
WatchesHK@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI

Hong Kong Auction 24 - 25 May 2023