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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1986
    Reference No: 25554BA
    Movement No: 286’079
    Case No: C19594, No. 311
    Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual calendar
    Material: 18k yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2120/2800, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold and yellow gold Audemars Piguet folding clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audermars Piguet Certificate of Origin and Extract from the Registers confirming the present watch was produced on November 18, 1986.

  • Catalogue Essay

    First unveiled by Audemars Piguet in the early 1970s and designed by the late Gerald Genta, the Royal Oak became an icon for the manufacturer with very distinctive features. Offered only in stainless steel initially bearing a thin case matched with a sophisticated bracelet, it was not too long before it gained popularity redefining high-end steel sports watches during the golden era.

    With the growing success of the Royal oak line, Audemars Piguet, later on, explored with different case materials, dial variations as well as adding complications such as perpetual calendars and minute repeaters.

    The first production of Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was launched in 1984. With the forward-thinking approach from the Managing Director George Golay fitting the thin workhorse caliber 2120/2800 into the Royal Oak case, making it one of the world thinnest automatic perpetual calendar watch.

    The early production of reference 25554 was made in only 279 examples, most of which are cased in yellow gold, a small number in stainless steel and only one in Platinum. The present lot is fitted with a black dial and based on our research could be the only one known with applied gold print. To further highlight the rarity of this piece, a subtle detail can be seen where the brand signature on the moon phase is of a smaller font, only found in early production pieces.

    Further complimented with the Certificate of Origin, the present lot Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is a true icon for the manufacturer that lays the foundation and success of this series.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Property from an Important European Collector

837

Ref. 25554BA
An extremely fine and only known yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with black dial, moon phases, leap year indication, bracelet and guarantee

1986
39mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$780,000 - 1,560,000 
€83,300-167,000
$100,000-200,000

Sold for HK$3,276,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031
[email protected]

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII

Hong Kong Auctions 5-6 June 2021