Audemars Piguet - Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 Geneva Friday, November 8, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: Circa 1990
    Reference No: 25643
    Case No: 15
    Material: Platinum
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2870, 32 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Platinum Audemars Piguet pin buckle
    Dimensions: 28.5mm width x 38mm length
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet fitted box, Certificate of Origin, product literature, hang tag and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Audemars Piguet reference 25643 is a model of many firsts. With the idea sparking in 1982 and launching in 1986, it was the world’s very first automatic tourbillon wristwatch as well as the very first serially produced tourbillon wristwatch. Adding to its incredible pedigree is that the watch was also extremely thin at 5.3mm which made the watch the thinnest automatic tourbillon wristwatch for decades to come.

    To obtain maximum thinnesse the movement does not have a backplate per se but rather the watch’s caseback acts as a backplate in which the jewels are visible from the back. Caliber 2870 was groundbreaking at time of launch, it has a very small, very light tourbillon carriage, 7.2 mm in diameter, and 2.5mm in height and is made of titanium – the first time this metal was used in a tourbillon. To further maintain the thinness the traditional rotor was done away and replaced by a “hammer system”.

    The dial design is as audacious as the concept behind the watch. According to Audemars Piguet the sunray pattern, was derived from an Egyptian relief carving of the Pharaoh Akhenaton and his wife, Nefertiti. The tourbillon placed at 11 o’clock represents the sun, with its rays adorning the dial with 12 hour markers representing planets. The half moon aperture at 6 o’clock offers a view of the rotor.

    Reference 25643 was in production until 1999, 401 pieces were made in total of which only 22 in platinum like the present example, which is made even rarer thanks to the flamboyant use of blue mother of pearl “rays”.

    The present watch, part of the earlier production pieces with hooded lugs comes with its original set of accessories.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 25643
A superb, rare, historic and groundbreaking platinum tourbillon wristwatch with mother of pearl dial, certificate of origin and presentation box

Circa 1990
28.5mm width x 38mm length
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate
CHF20,000 - 40,000 
€21,300-42,600
$23,300-46,500

Sold for CHF101,600

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
aghotbi@phillips.com

 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

tto@phillips.com

 

 

 

Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999

Geneva Auction 8 November 2024