Audemars Piguet - The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX featuring the Guido Mondani Collection Geneva Saturday, May 11, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1973
    Reference No: 5402
    Case No: A506
    Model Name: Royal Oak "Jumbo"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max overall length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and strap signed
    Accessories: Electronic Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confirming production on 23 January, 1973 and service papers from September 2023.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Royal Oak is not only the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet (launched in 1972) but also one of the horological world’s best known names and designs.

    Designed overnight in response to an urgent request for an “unprecedented steel watch,” it was at the same time the most expensive stainless steel watch ever made. The brand sought famed designer Gérald Genta, who developed a brilliantly engineered monobloc case, with a distinctively maritime feel, featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal white gold screws, and a dial with a tapisserie motif. The watch became known among collectors as the “Jumbo” due to the 39mm diameter case, which at the time was considered large compared to standard gentlemen’s dress watches, most of which measured between 33 and 35mm in diameter.

    The present Royal Oak 5402 is an “A Series” with the case number 506. The ref. 5402 was produced in several different batches across A, B, C and D case numbers with small design details that made each subtly different. They house the extra slim caliber 2121 based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920, that would later be used for Patek Philippe’s Nautilus wristwatch and Vacheron Constantin’s 222.

    Consigned by the original owner, this Royal Oak features the distinctive “AP’” logo positioned at 6 o’clock, with later models having the brand logo at the 12 o’clock position. The dial is all the more desirable and further enhanced due to its incredible harmonious espresso colored “tropical” dial.

    The watch was fully serviced by Audemars Piguet in September 2023 and is in lovely overall condition.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 5402
A gorgeous stainless “A Series” wristwatch with brown “tropical dial”, bracelet and service receipt

39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and strap signed

CHF35,000 - 70,000 

Sold for CHF88,900

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX featuring the Guido Mondani Collection

Geneva Auction 11 - 12 May 2024