Audemars Piguet - The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX featuring the Guido Mondani Collection Geneva Saturday, May 11, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: Circa 1986
    Reference No: 25554BA
    Movement No: 274'253
    Case No: C16530
    Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2120/4, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 180mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    First introduced as a time-only luxury sports watch in steel with an integrated bracelet in 1972, the ingenious design was by the great and late Gerald Genta. An unusual release at the time, doubly so for its release during the peak of the quartz crisis, it commanded a higher price than a gold watch. However, the firm’s vision behind Genta’s ingenuity would prevail, becoming the true pioneers behind the boom of the luxury sports wristwatch.

    The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was launched in 1984. The forward-thinking approach from the Managing Director of Audemars Piguet at the time, George Golay, took the thin workhorse caliber 2120/2800, added an ultra-slim perpetual calendar module, and fitted it into the already slim Royal Oak case, making it one of the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar watches.

    The very first of these produced in series was the reference 25554 like the present lot and was made only in scarce quantities: an estimated 279 examples across all metals including yellow gold, stainless steel, and platinum.

    One of the earlier examples produced with case number C16 serial it features all the subtle details collectors have come to love such as the three gold dotted indexes at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock and its small signature under the moon phase.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 25554BA
A highly rare and attractive yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with bracelet

Circa 1986
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF60,000 - 120,000 

Sold for CHF76,200

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX featuring the Guido Mondani Collection

Geneva Auction 11 - 12 May 2024