Audemars Piguet - The Geneva Watch Auction: XVIII Geneva Friday, November 3, 2023 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1975
    Reference No: 5402
    Movement No: 147'397
    Case No: B1300 and 99'064
    Model Name: Royal Oak "B Series"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 180mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificate d'Origine et de Garantie dated 1975 and presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak is without a doubt the brand's most recognizable timepiece. Along with Patek Philippe’s Nautilus model, and the reference 222 by Vacheron Constantin, these Swiss manufacturers sought to respond to the quartz crisis of the 1970s by redefining what a luxury watch can be, setting the world on fire with these creations over the last four decades. Released in 1972, the Royal Oak was the most expensive stainless steel watch ever produced at the time, costing more money to produce than their white gold dress wristwatches due to the difficulty in finishing stainless steel to their exceptional standard.

    When first released, the Royal Oak reference 5402 featured the “AP” logo at 6 o’clock, compared with later examples with the “AP” logo positioned at 12 o’clock. Collectors today denote the “series” of the watch by the case number prominently seen on the case back with the earliest models referred to as “A-Series”. The present example from 1975 with case number "B1300” is part of the original “B” series. The watch became known amongst collectors as “Jumbo” due to the 39mm diameter case, which at the time was considered clarge compared to gentlemen’s dress watches of the time, most of which measured between 33 and 35 mm in diameter. The present timepiece is preserved in exceptional and most probably unpolished condition, with incredibly sharp and defined facets which showcase what the model is best known for. The bevels are particularly stunning, with razor-sharp edges. Other correct details include the original non-AP crown and flat deployant clasp. Further adding to the collectibility of these attributes is the presence of the original certificate and presentation box - both being hardly-seen rarities.

    Research with the manufacture confirms the production of the present watch in 1975.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

    View More Works


Ref. 5402
An extremely well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with date, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF60,000 - 120,000 

Sold for CHF73,660

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88


The Geneva Watch Auction: XVIII

Geneva Auction 3 - 4 November 2023