Audemars Piguet - The Royal Oak 50th Geneva Friday, May 6, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1973
    Reference No: 5402ST
    Movement No: 142'417
    Case No: 67996.A996
    Model Name: Royal Oak Jumbo "Khanjar"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal 2121, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp further signed Gay Frères
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificate of Authenticity confirming sale of the present watch in October 17, 1973, outer box and fitted presentation box. Furthermore accompanied by Audemars Piguet and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo co-signed Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Attestation.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet. Designed overnight in response to an urgent request for an ‘unprecedented steel watch’, it was at the same time the most expensive stainless steel watch ever made. The brand sought famed designer Gerald Genta, who developed a brilliantly engineered, monobloc case, with a distinctively maritime feel, featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal, white gold screws, and a dial with tapisserie motif. While today the Royal Oak is a legend, at the beginning it was more than a bet, it was a true visionary revolution, the first appearance of what is today's most successful kind of wristwatch: the luxury sport watch in steel.

    The Royal Oak model reference 5402ST has been produced in four different batches: A, B, C and D with small design details that made each slightly different.

    The reference 5402 remained in the Audemars Piguet Catalogues for 25 years and was produced in 6,050 examples over the different series.

    The present reference 5402 "A Series" Royal Oak truly deserves the Royal in its name as it is a piece commissioned by The Sultan of Oman, His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said.

    The dial of the present reference 5402 is different to the regular production models as it is black (and not blue/grey) lacking the tapisserie motif but with elegant diamond markers and proudly exhibiting the "Khanjar" daggers - the emblem of Oman - on the lower part of the dial. Research shows that a batch of 6 dials without tapisserie, with diamond-set indexes and an emblem at 6 o'clock has been ordered by Audemars Piguet in spring 1973.

    The Sultan of Oman, His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said, was a well-known collector and horological enthusiast, and specially commissioned watches from the finest manufactures to be given as gifts to loyal servants and foreign dignitaries. His Majesty ascended to the throne on July 23, 1970, which makes the present watch likely to be amongst the first gifts he offered during his reign.

    His Majesty was born in 1940. Following his ascent to the throne aged 30, the monarch "modernized" the state by launching a series of programs to advance the healthcare, education, and infrastructure systems in Oman.

    In absolutely astounding condition, the present "A Series" is part of a handful of examples known bearing the Khanjar.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 5402ST
An extremely rare and fine stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman

39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF150,000 - 300,000 

Sold for CHF756,000

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi

Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81
[email protected]


Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Head of Sale, Specialist
+41 76 338 91 03
[email protected]

The Royal Oak 50th

Geneva Auction 6 May 2022