Audemars Piguet - The Royal Oak 50th Geneva Friday, May 6, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1997
    Reference No: 25686PR
    Movement No: 396'973
    Case No: D44070.13
    Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
    Material: Platinum and 18K pink gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal 2120/2800, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Platinum and 18K pink gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Platinum Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo co-signed Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Attestation.

  • Catalogue Essay

    A new perpetual calendar reference made from 1990-1998, reference 25686 was made in 92 pieces in steel, 70 pieces in yellow gold, 18 pieces in pink gold, 31 pieces in platinum, 25 pieces in platinum and pink gold, 37 in pink gold and platinum, 26 pieces in steel and platinum for a total of 299 watches.

    “This is a transitional model”. How many times such a sentence has been thrown around during a watch discussion - or even more often in an auction catalogue - but what does it actually mean? It means that the watch in question presents characteristics typical of the generation before it, but also characteristics found in the generation after it, making the piece a sort of “missing link” and thus intellectually very relevant in the context of the brand’s evolution. Such is the case of the present timepiece.

    It features a modern Audemars Piguet signature - with taller A and P and serifed design - but it still misses the leap year indication, as seen in watches made up to 1993 featuring the calibre 2120/2800 - which will be replaced by the leap year version cal. 2120/2802.

    Beyond the intellectual intrigue of being a transitional model, the present watch flabbergasts the beholder with the contrast of platinum and pink gold - boosted by the salmon dial. Compared to a fully platinum case, the juxtaposition with the pink gold makes the white metal appear darker than usual - one might be inclined to think the case is tantalum and pink gold - which in result grants the piece a very aggressive and sporty vibe while at the same time not negating the aura of importance that such a rare watch is naturally supposed to carry. According to our researches, it seems that Audemars Piguet only produced 25 examples of this reference in platinum and pink gold.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 25686PR
An extremely rare and attractive platinum and pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with salmon dial

39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF100,000 - 200,000 

Sold for CHF327,600

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi

Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81


Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Head of Sale, Specialist
+41 76 338 91 03

The Royal Oak 50th

Geneva Auction 6 May 2022