Audemars Piguet - The Royal Oak 50th Geneva Friday, May 6, 2022 | Phillips

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    • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
      Year: 1994
      Reference No: 25636SP
      Movement No: 391'011
      Case No: D42001.16/25
      Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
      Material: Stainless steel and platinum
      Calibre: Automatic, cal 2120/2800, 38 jewels
      Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel and platinum Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm
      Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
      Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
      Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
      Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet extract from register. Further accompanied by Audemars Piguet and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo co-signed Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Attestation.

    • Catalogue Essay

      Following the presentation of its first perpetual calendar Royal Oak model in 1984, Audemars Piguet followed up with an openworked version in 1986 including a sapphire caseback. Reference 25636 was in production until 1997 and made in 60 pieces in steel, 156 pieces in yellow gold, 6 pieces in pink gold, 41 pieces in platinum, 24 pieces in pink gold and platinum, and 25 pieces in steel and platinum, for a total of 312 examples.

      The present example is one of the scarcest combinations of this reference as it features a steel case with platinum bezel and platinum central links on the bracelet. As proudly declared on the back, only 25 pieces in this configuration ever left Audemars Piguet's workshop, of which this current example is no. 16.

      While the fact that this reference is the first openwork Royal Oak model will appeal to the “historian collectors” and its rarity to the “relic hunters” of the collecting community, the looks of this variation not only set it apart from its peers, but also has universal appeal. While the other variations of the reference usually feature a brushed bezel, this version mounts a mirror-polished bezel (a somewhat recurring characteristic of pieces with platinum bezels, such as ref. 15202IP - see lot 74). This detail dramatically alters the look of the watch, and is the opposite of what is regularly found on the Royal Oak, the brushed bezel being a nearly universal characteristic of the model.

      Not only extremely rare, the present piece is also very well preserved.

    • Artist Biography

      Audemars Piguet

      Swiss • 1881

      A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

      Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 25636SP
A very rare stainless steel and platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with openworked dial and bracelet, number 16 on a limited edition of 25 pieces

39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Full Cataloguing

CHF150,000 - 300,000 

Sold for CHF378,000

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi

Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81


Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Head of Sale, Specialist
+41 76 338 91 03

The Royal Oak 50th

Geneva Auction 6 May 2022