Audemars Piguet - The Royal Oak 50th Geneva Friday, May 6, 2022 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1988
    Reference No: 25654PT
    Movement No: 286'619
    Case No: C54927.1 The caseback is further engraved Asprey
    Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
    Material: Platinum
    Calibre: Automatic, cal 2120/2800, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Platinum Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Platinum Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificate of Authenticity dated June 03, 1988 and self winding box with outer packaging. Further accompanied by Audemars Piguet and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo co-signed Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Attestation.

  • Catalogue Essay

    In 1984, the Royal Oak model was presented with a perpetual calendar, not only a rare complication at the time as very few brands were still producing them, but the audacity of housing this delicate complication in a steel sports watch was mind boggling.

    Reference 25654 replaced the first Royal Oak Perpetual calendar reference 25554 in 1987 and was produced until 1998 in 315 pieces in steel, 430 pieces in yellow gold, 68 pieces in steel and yellow gold and 38 in platinum. It differs from its sibling for a slightly thicker case thickness (8.25mm vs the 7.5mm of ref. 25554) meant to improve its water resistance capabilities.

    However, even though at first glance the present reference 25654 may seem like steel, the acute eye will notice the matte sheen of the metal giving away that it is in fact platinum. Once in the hand, the sheer heft of the watch fully discloses its platinum livery.

    Another extremely appealing element is the copper brown dial bearing the traditional Royal Oak tapisserie motif and sunray pattern subdials providing for a very visually powerful result.

    An extra element of appeal raising the collectability and desirability of the piece is the fact that it bears number 1 and was retailed by Asprey in London (as engraved on the caseback).

    The present reference 25654 is in overall very appealing condition and it is part of a very small number of platinum examples - actually only 38 examples were produced in platinum - with such a graphic dial color.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 25654PT
An extremely rare and attractive platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with brown dial, bracelet, certificate and box retailed by Asprey bearing N0. 1

39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF250,000 - 500,000 

Sold for CHF1,022,200

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi

Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81


Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Head of Sale, Specialist
+41 76 338 91 03

The Royal Oak 50th

Geneva Auction 6 May 2022