Audemars Piguet - The Royal Oak 50th Geneva Friday, May 6, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1992
    Reference No: 25654BA
    Movement No: 354'636
    Case No: D12781.786
    Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal 2120/2800, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract of Archives dated June 26, 1992. Further accompanied by Audemars Piguet and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo co-signed Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Attestation.

  • Catalogue Essay

    As with all rules, there are exceptions, and this watch is the exception that proves the rule. According to scholarship, Tuscan dials were not mounted on yellow gold watches. However Tuscan dials were not decorated with golden script either. And yet, this watch exists. According to our research, Audemars Piguet archives contain a mention of a yellow gold "Tuscan" dial that was most certainly fitted in the present watch.

    This superb finish, nicknamed "Tuscan", is made by hand by hammering the surface which gives it an irregular but above all unique rendering since no dial is the same. The fine and delicate ridges on the dial catch the light perfectly and can change in tone pending on the angle.

    Presented on a perpetual calendar in yellow gold, this dial is complemented by gilt script, indexes and hands, making this combination breathtaking and most importantly so far unique, as no other example is known from the market. This piece alone represents the greatest know-hows of Audemars Piguet on its iconic model.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 25654BA
An important, impressive and the only known of its kind yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with blue "Tuscan" dial, gilt graphics and bracelet

1992
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF100,000 - 200,000 
€98,200-196,000
$106,000-212,000

Sold for CHF453,600

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi

Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81
AGhotbi@phillips.com

 

Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Head of Sale, Specialist
+41 76 338 91 03
vliatard@phillips.com

The Royal Oak 50th

Geneva Auction 6 May 2022