Audemars Piguet - The Royal Oak 50th Geneva Friday, May 6, 2022 | Phillips

Create your first list.

Select an existing list or create a new list to share and manage lots you follow.

    • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
      Year: 1994
      Reference No: 25686PT
      Movement No: 374'104
      Case No: D34720.20
      Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
      Material: Platinum
      Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2120/2800, 38 jewels
      Bracelet/Strap: Platinum Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
      Clasp/Buckle: Platinum Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
      Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
      Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
      Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificat d'Origine et de Garantie. Further accompanied by Audemars Piguet and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo co-signed Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Attestation.

    • Catalogue Essay

      A new perpetual calendar reference made from 1990-1998, reference 25686 was made in 92 pieces in steel, 70 pieces in yellow gold, 18 pieces in pink gold, 31 pieces in platinum, 25 pieces in platinum and pink gold, 37 in pink gold and platinum, 26 pieces in steel and platinum for a total of 299 watches.

      Sometimes a timepiece can substantiate the concept of irony. Think how much effort, time and capital watch companies have put into developing the most advanced technical materials to employ on dials for the most intriguing aesthetic results. A short list would comprise of enamels (of many different kinds), forged carbon, ceramic and even aeronautic-derived materials. And yet one of the most natural materials of all - mother-of-pearl - still arguably surpasses this array of technologies in beauty and refinement, as is obvious by glancing at this timepiece. One could easily loose oneself in the countless shimmering refractions of this dial.

      That said, the fact that mother-of-pearl is a natural material does not mean it is easy to work with. Not only does one have to source appropriately large discs, the production process itself is extremely difficult, and made even more so by the sunken subsidiary dials. It is not surprising that such a demanding - and thus costly - dial was produced in extremely limited quantities and employed only, in the case of this reference, for the most exclusive case metal: platinum. In fact, according to Audemars Piguet, 31 examples of reference 25686PT with mother-of-pearl dial were ever produced, a truly limited number for privileged clients.

    • Artist Biography

      Audemars Piguet

      Swiss • 1881

      A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

      Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

      View More Works


Ref. 25686PT
An extremely rare and elusive platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, mother of pearl dial, sapphire caseback and original certificate booklet

39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Full Cataloguing

CHF100,000 - 200,000 

Sold for CHF403,200

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi

Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81


Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Head of Sale, Specialist
+41 76 338 91 03

The Royal Oak 50th

Geneva Auction 6 May 2022