Audemars Piguet - The Royal Oak 50th Geneva Friday, May 6, 2022 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1991
    Reference No: 25636PT
    Movement No: 324'268
    Case No: C84188.0024
    Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
    Material: Platinum
    Calibre: Automatic, cal 2120/2800, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Platinum Audemars Piguet bracelet further stamped Gay Frères, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Platinum Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Register confirming sale of the watch on March 26, 1991, box and outer packaging. Further accompanied by Audemars Piguet and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo co-signed Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Attestation.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Following the presentation of its first perpetual calendar Royal Oak model in 1984, Audemars Piguet followed up with an openworked version in 1986 including a sapphire caseback. Reference 25636 was in production until 1997 and made in 60 pieces in steel, 156 pieces in yellow gold, 6 pieces in pink gold, 41 pieces in platinum, 24 pieces in pink gold and platinum, and 25 pieces in steel and platinum, for a total of 312 examples.

    Bearing a C serial number, this rare platinum ref. 25636PT is one of the earliest variants to feature an openworked dial exposing the magical wonders of the perpetual calendar mechanism. Featuring midnight blue graphics, the dial includes the traditional indications of a perpetual calendar: day, date, astronomical moon (with graduation for age of the moon) and month: the leap-year indication is missing. Indeed, such early generation models were bare of a leap-year indication, as it happens on most "old school" perpetual calendar wristwatches, an indication that would later been introduced on all subsequent Royal Oak perpetual calendar models by the mid-1990s.

    Written at six o’clock is the "Audemars Piguet" signature in small lettering. Referred to as a Mk 1 dial, this small signature can only be found on the earlier examples of the reference 25636. The manufacture would later adopt a modern signature style with a bigger “A” and "P" commonly found on watches today.

    Usually more susceptible to wear than stainless steel, the present 25636 in platinum is extremely well-preserved, retaining all its original lines, crisp hallmarks and shape. Adding to its collectability, the watch is further accompanied by its original bracelet, featuring the hallmark of the renowned bracelet maker Gay Frères.

    The combination of sublime technical execution and unmistakable looks has over time led the collector community to consecrate this model as one of the most interesting, attractive and collectible complicated Royal Oak executions.

    The present piece will impress its beholder with its elegance, rarity, heft and excellent condition.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 25636PT
A superbly rare and incredibly attractive platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with openworked dial, moonphases, bracelet and box

39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF200,000 - 400,000 

Sold for CHF680,400

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi

Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81


Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Head of Sale, Specialist
+41 76 338 91 03

The Royal Oak 50th

Geneva Auction 6 May 2022