A very fine, rare and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with green gold dial

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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1943
    Reference No: Case style 255, archive reference 1529
    Movement No: 46'836
    Case No: 46'836
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal 13VZAH, 21 jewels, stamped "ROR"
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Gold plated pin buckle
    Dimensions: 33mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1943 and its subsequent sale to Roerich NY in 1945.
    Literature: Reference 1529 is prominently illustrated and described in "Audemars Piguet 20th Century Complicated Wristwatches", pp. 184-185.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Fully embodying the aesthetics of 1940s watchmaking, the present wristwatch is part of the exceedingly rare Audemars Piguet vintage chronograph production. It is identified by Audemars Piguet’s archives as bearing case style “255”, a round case with downturned lugs extending from the case, which corresponds to the typical 1940s style. Case style 255 is known to feature a wide range of diameters (the smallest being 32.5mm and the largest, 39m) and an equally wide range of lug designs slightly differing by length and thickness.

    The archive reference 1529 instead identifies this very configuration of case and dial as a remarkably rare model. It would appear that only four examples of this reference were made in total: one of them was sold in Geneva, one in Milan, and two in New York. According to Audemars Piguet, the present watch is one of those sold in New York, and as expected the movement is stamped “ROR”, confirming the original American destination of the piece. All four watches were manufactured between 1939 and 1943, and sold between 1941 and 1945.

    Offered in stunning condition, the watch captivates the beholder with its perfectly preserved old green gold dial. This alloy (known in French as “vieil” or “vert”) was sporadically used in the early 20th century before being completely abandoned altogether. Its pale green hue has in this instance aged over time with a strong patina, turning an exquisite and intense tobacco/dark champagne hue.

  • Maker Bio

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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103

Ref. Case style 255, archive reference 1529
A very fine, rare and attractive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with green gold dial

1943
33mm diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
CHF35,000 - 70,000 
€30,800-61,600
$35,900-71,700

sold for CHF43,750

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Sale
+41 22 317 81 89
aghotbi@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: EIGHT

Geneva Auction 10-11 November 2018