Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet Year: 1978 Reference No: 5402BC Movement No: 174'458 Case No: B22949, 32 Model Name: Royal Oak "Jumbo" Material: 18K white gold Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121/1, 36 jewels Bracelet/Strap: 18K white gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 180mm Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp Dimensions: 39mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives confirming production of this watch in 1978 and its subsequent sale in Germany
Catalogue Essay
Introduced in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is, without a doubt, one of the landmark wristwatch designs of the 20th century. Created during the depths of the quartz crisis, the most expensive steel watch ever offered to the public was believed by many to bankrupt the company. Over the past four decades, the Royal Oak has instead fueled the brand’s success to the extent of becoming the key product line of Audemars Piguet.
The present Royal Oak in 18-karat white gold is amongst the rarest variants of the original reference 5402 – the affectionately named “Jumbo”. Produced in very small quantities, this specimen is the 32nd example of only 149 believed to have been manufactured by the firm in white gold. Crafted out of solid 18-karat gold, its luxurious heft is dramatic, especially when compared to the regular production stainless steel versions. Measuring 39mm in diameter, its iconic octagonal bezel is secured with mirror-polished white gold hexagonal screws that provide attractive, eye-catching contrast to the brushed polished bezel. The surface of the black dial features a guilloché mini-“tapisserie” pattern – a texture resembling small square cobblestones which is found on all early Royal Oak dials. It is adorned with tasteful diamond hour markers whose unobtrusive presence manages to light up the dial without it feeling cumbersome. Presented in superb overall condition, the present lot is a rare opportunity for collectors of luxury sports watches.
A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.
Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.