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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1989
    Reference No: 25654ST
    Movement No: 294'173
    Case No: C-19665, further stamped n°172
    Model Name: Royal Oak
    Material: Stainless Steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal 2120/2800, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel bracelet measuring 195mm. max
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel deployant clasp signed AP
    Dimensions: 39mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet
    Accessories: Accompanied by fitted watch winder, outer cardboard box, original guarantee, second mother of pearl dial, service papers, travel box, product literature and setting pin.
    Literature: Reference 25654 and the caliber 2120/2800 are illustrated in Audemars Piguet, Collector Book, Calendar Watches by Sebastian Vivas and Michael L. Friedman, pp. 50-70 published by Audemars Piguet Heritage Department.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Royal Oak is a timepiece that set the benchmark on many fronts. Not only was it the very first luxury sports watch when launched in 1972, it was also the very first luxury sports watch featuring a complication.

    In 1982, exactly 10 years after its launch, the Royal Oak was presented with a perpetual calendar, not only a rare complication at the time as very few brands were still producing them but the audacity of housing this delicate complication in a steel sports watch was mind boggling.

    Interestingly, the birth of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is the result of research undertaken by three brilliant watchmakers wishing to create an extra slim perpetual calendar mechanism built upon caliber 2120, which cased other iconic models such as Patek Philippe's Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin's 222 and the Royal Oak itself.

    Caliber 2120/2800 was born in 1977 making it the world’s slimmest perpetual calendar movement with a thickness of only 3.95mm. The subsequent years were used in finalizing the development and finally in 1982 the Royal Oak took the horological world by surprise, once again, with the launch of a model with perpetual calendar.

    The present lot, reference 25654ST, in absolutely stunning condition was in production between 1982 and 1993 and made in only 272 pieces in steel. The present lot is not only fitted with a superb silver dial but is also accompanied by a second mother of pearl dial habitually reserved for the platinum models.

    The present lot is a spectacular time capsule, made in 1989 and offered by the original owner complete with winding box, certificate of guarantee, setting pin, service papers dating 2016 and of course a second mother of pearl dial enabling the watch to change appearances, going from active to sleek elegance, depending on the dial mounted.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Σ147

Ref. 25654ST
A fine and rare stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with bracelet, moonphases and additional mother of pearl dial

1989
39mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet

Estimate
CHF20,000 - 30,000 
€18,500-27,800
$19,800-29,700

Sold for CHF40,000

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE

Geneva Auctions 13 – 14 May 2017