Audemars Piguet - The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE Geneva Friday, May 12, 2017 | Phillips

Create your first list.

Select an existing list or create a new list to share and manage lots you follow.

  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: circa 1972
    Reference No: 5402ST
    Movement No: 127'641
    Case No: 067'315-A315
    Model Name: Royal Oak "A Series"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel, max length 180mm.
    Clasp/Buckle: Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Authenticity and Exclusivity Certificate and service papers dated September 2013, presentation box and additional link.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Immediately recognizable even to the non cognoscenti, the Royal Oak has become one of the greatest horological designs of all time.

    Legend has it that suffering from the quartz crisis of the early 1970s, Audemars Piguet looked for a way to take the market by storm. It was decided that the time was right for an audacious luxury steel timepiece. Gerald Genta was commissioned to design this watch for which he had…24 hours. The result was a surprisingly bold maritime inspired design featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal gold screws, visible water resistance gasket and a dial adorned with a tapisserie motif.

    The Royal Oak was presented at the Basel fair in 1972. The rest, as they say, is history.

    Interestingly, the Royal Oak housed the extra slim caliber 2121 (developed by Jaeger LeCoultre as caliber 920), a caliber used by the three great Swiss makers in their luxury steel sports watches of the 1970s: Patek Philippe's Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin's 222 and of course Audemars Piguet with the Royal Oak.

    The first Royal Oak model reference 5402 is also referred to as the "A-Series" or "Jumbo". The "A-Series" is distinguished by the placement of the “AP” logo above 6 o’clock, compared to later examples typically bearing the “AP” logo at 12 o’clock. The dial is fitted with a dark tapisserie dial, aperture for date at 3 o’clock and luminous white gold hands and hour markers.

    When Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak, it was the most expensive stainless steel watch ever made at the time. Interestingly enough, the Royal Oak encased in stainless steel cost more money for the company to produce than their gold dress watches. So ground-breaking was its concept, Audemars Piguet's competitors thought the watch would bankrupt the company.

    45 years after its launch, the Royal Oak remains the foundation of the sports chic watch that is disruptif, playful, sophisticated and exuding 70s cool.

    The present example is number 315, indicating that it was the 315th Royal Oak produced. Adding to the collectability of this piece, the watch is presented with an Audemars Piguet Certificate of Origin and service papers.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

    View More Works


Ref. 5402ST
A very rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date, bracelet, Authenticity and Exclusivity Certificate and service papers

circa 1972
39mm. Diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

CHF15,000 - 25,000 

Sold for CHF47,500

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE

Geneva Auctions 13 – 14 May 2017