Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet Year: 1977 Reference No: 5402 BC Movement No: 174'458 Case No: B-22949 / 32 Model Name: Royal Oak "Jumbo" Material: 18k white gold Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121/1, 36 jewels Bracelet/Strap: 18k white gold Audemars Piguet link bracelet, max length 185mm Clasp/Buckle: Deployant clasp Dimensions: 39mm. Diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Catalogue Essay
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is, without a doubt, one of the most iconic wristwatch designs of the 20th century. Designed in one night by Gerald Genta, it was introduced in 1972, during the depths of the quartz crisis, and was the most expensive steel watch ever offered to the public. So audacious was its concept, Audemars Piguet’s competitors were sure the watch would bankrupt the company. Flash-forward to today, and the Royal Oak has become the key product line of Audemars Piguet, having fueled the brand’s success over the past four decades.
The present Royal Oak in 18-karat white gold is amongst the rarest variants of the original reference 5402 – the affectionately named “Jumbo”. Produced in very small quantities, this reference 5402BC is one of only 149 believed to have been manufactured by the firm. Crafted out of solid 18-karat gold, its luxurious heft is dramatic, especially when compared with regular production stainless steel versions. Measuring 39mm in diameter, its iconic, octagonal bezel is secured with mirror-polished, white gold hexagonal screws that provide attractive, eye-catching contrast to the brushed polished bezel.
The surface of the black dial features a guilloche mini-“tapisserie” pattern – a texture found on all early Royal Oak dials. Resembling small paver stones, it has retained its original color with no signs of flaking. It’s adorned with tasteful, diamond hour markers perfectly complementing the screws of the bezel. The present lot is a rare opportunity for collectors of luxury sports watches.
A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.
Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.