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108

Audemars Piguet

Ref. 5403BA

"Cobra"

A luxurious and impressive yellow gold automatic wristwatch with date, champagne dial, diamond-set indexes and integrated bracelet

Estimate
CHF12,000 - 20,000
€12,900 - 21,600
$15,100 - 25,100
CHF40,640
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Audemars Piguet
Year
Circa 1975
Reference No
5403BA
Movement No
173'571
Case No
B17648
Model Name
"Cobra"
Material
18k yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal.2121/1, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18k yellow gold Gilbert Gaschen integrated woven bracelet, max length 190mm
Clasp/Buckle
18k yellow gold Gilbert Gaschen clasp
Dimensions
34.5mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed, clasp further signed by bracelet maker
Catalogue Essay
The present example of Audemars Piguet Cobra is an interpreter of the eclectic taste of the 1970s. Not only its massive yellow gold case with integrated woven bracelet is practically an incarnation of the 1970s flair, but the feat is further boosted by the superbly well-preserved satin dial with vertical brushing and diamond-set numerals.

An eclectic era, the seventies never cease to amaze where beautiful, stand out designs populate the decade. From the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Vacheron Constantin 222 and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak that dominate the modern taste of sports luxury watches, to the extravagant designs like the Piaget Polo, Rolex King Midas all with one thing in common, integrated bracelets. And perhaps for a few of those icons the household name Gerald Genta, including the present Audemars Piguet ‘Cobra’.

Owing the venomous nickname to its flashy design, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5403 was introduced in 1971, a sibling of the Royal Oak ref. 5402 that transformed into a scale-like appearance. Flawlessly comfortable, Genta took integrated bracelet to the next level. Designed with seamlessness and single entity in mind, Genta described it as “magnificent and perfect integration”. The bracelet is composed of ten, very thick polish-braided links gradually widening to embrace the dial.

However, Genta is only one of the great names of watchmaking associated with the present piece. The casemaker stamp 136 within a hammer identifies the case as the work of master casemaker Spillmann (most notable for being the first casemaker entrusted with the execution of the Oyster case by Rolex). The bracelet itself is, unsurprisingly, work of another master artisan: bracelet maker Gilbert Gaschen, identified by the GRG stamp.

Audemars Piguet

Swiss | 1881
A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.
Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.
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