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19Δ

Andersen Geneve

Ref. 360

A stupendous unique white gold minute repeating retrograde perpetual calendar wristwatch with bracelet, J.P. Hagmann case and documentation

Estimate
CHF80,000 - 160,000
€85,400 - 171,000
$93,400 - 187,000
CHF114,300
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Andersen Geneve
Year
1988
Reference No
360
Movement No
97061
Material
18k white gold
Calibre
Manual wind
Bracelet/Strap
18k white gold (non Andersen) measuring 210mm max length
Clasp/Buckle
18k white gold concealed buckle
Dimensions
38mm Diameter
Signed
Case and dial signed Andersen Genève, movement signed Tiffany & Co.
Accessories
Accompanied by Andersen Genève Certificate confirming the watch was made circa 1988 and that it is a unique piece, fitted box, extra strap with Andersen Geneve buckle, order invoice, technical drawings, numerous documents on Andersen and his oeuvre
Catalogue Essay
Svend Andersen’s oeuvre is composed of world premieres, mind bending complications and delicate handwork. His influence on horology in the 1980s-1990s is wide and deep considering that even though he had set up his workshops making watches under his name he was still creating complicated pieces for other brands.

Dubbed the “Watchmaker of the Impossible”, Danish born Svend Andersen moved to Switzerland in 1963 and worked for famed retailer Gübelin in their aftersales service. During his spare time he worked on a “Bottle Clock” a clock that was placed within a small bottle where Andersen had to assemble a working clock inside the confined space of said bottle!

The “Bottle Clock” was exhibited in 1969 at the “Montres et Bijoux” fair and the same year Andersen joined Patek Philippe at the Grand Complications workshop.

A pioneer in spirit, Andersen had the courage to set out on his own in 1980 in the midst of the quartz crisis with an aim to create unique bespoke timepieces. In 1985 with Vincent Calabrese – he co-founded the AHCI (Académie Horloger des Createurs Independent/ Horological Academy of Independent Creators) for which the duo received the Achievement Award at the GPHG in 2023.

The present minute repeater with retrograde perpetual calendar was made in 1988 as a special order for Mr. Yoshi Isogai, the President of Shellman Co in Japan.

Based on a vintage Tiffany & Co movement (that is most probably made by Patek Philippe like the majority of repeating movements by Tiffany & Co) Andersen designed the perpetual calendar module with retrograde date (an extremely rare complication at the time). The leap year indicator being discreetly and elegantly placed in an opening inside the month window.

The dial features an elegant barley grain guilloché in the centre and a sunray pattern guilloché for the calendar and moonphase displays.

For the case, Andersen turned to the man considered to be the greatest casemaker alive: J.P Hagmann, whose stamp appears on the case at 6 o’clock.

Andersen had made a handful of wristwatches featuring a minute repeater with retrograde perpetual calendar but each with a different dial and case design making the present example truly unique.

The collectability of the watch is further increased by the incredible number of accessories and documents accompanying it.

Andersen Geneve

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